The talk of fishing social media this past month has been about a possible new world-record yellowfin tuna landed off Mexico. Here’s the complete story: On a 10-day fishing trip to the Pacific waters of Baja, led by Capt. Justin Fleck of the Excel, a group of anglers set out in search of giant yellowfin tuna. Mega yellowfins are sometimes called “cows” and range in size from 200 to 300 pounds.

No one can argue that angler Earl Gill IV came out on top, bringing to the boat a jaw-dropping 443-pounder. Now, he might be an IGFA champion. His “super cow,” a rare yellowfin tuna weighing more than 300 pounds, was weighed on a certified IGFA scale and submitted to the IGFA on Saturday, Nov. 17, 2024, in San Diego, California. If approved, his catch would take over as the new all-tackle world record for yellowfin tuna.

Fishing for Giant Yellowfins

“We went down to the Lower Banks and there was one particular bank that had all the signs of tuna,” said Capt. Fleck. “It seemed like they were just starting to filter into the area, but the ones [showing] were nice big ones.

“On the first day we got there, we saw them swimming around the boat, but they were lethargic and wouldn’t bite. We only got one fish that day — a 309-pounder on the chunk. We had a family meeting and talked about if we wanted to give it another day, and everyone was up for the challenge.”

The morning of Monday, Nov. 11, another angler aboard the Excel got tight to a giant, hooking into a 275-pound tuna on a sinker rig. After that catch, it seemed like all life disappeared from the area.

Just as Fleck was about to pull anchor, a couple of fish started showing up on the radar. Gill quickly deployed his chunk line after the captain announced they spotted fish. Armed with a California-style rail rod and Okuma Makaira 20 — a 2-speed lever drag reel spooled with 100-pound-test line — he worked the aft corner of the boat.

A Yellowfin Tuna Catch to Remember

The yellowfin tuna took Gill’s chunk bait sitting 150 feet down, sending him racing toward the bow, ripping line the whole time. He knew he had something special on the line. Looking around the boat, other anglers were hooked up battling fish, but his fight felt much different. His fish took an amazing amount of 100-pound-test line, eventually stopping before the reel bottomed out.

After a tense one-hour standoff with his super cow, Gill found himself at a standstill. Fleck had to pull anchor to try to budge the fish from the bottom. The captain positioned the boat over the top of it, and Gill got to work. As the fish rose closer to the surface, he couldn’t feel the tail beating of a tuna swimming in death spirals, so the crew wondered if Gill had hooked something other than a yellowfin.

But they soon had an answer. As sometimes happens when targeting monster blue marlin, Gill’s fish died down deep. He had to pull the dead weight of his super cow up from the depths, a more grueling task than if the fish was still alive.  

“It was my first cow!” explained Gill. “I was hoping for a warmup cow, but I ended up getting the big one. The Makaira gearing worked perfectly. I think a lot of things lined up to help me land this fish.”

Capt. Justin Fleck isn’t new to putting his anglers on near record-breaking tuna. The boat, captain and crew have one of the best reputations in the San Diego long-range fleet, serving up trips that produce giant cow tuna. This record yellowfin was caught on Okuma’s Makaira Black Series reel, which features a silver-etched yellowfin tuna on its frame. How fitting that Gill had the right tackle at the right time to land his historic catch, potentially beating out the current world-record 427-pounder.

The post Yellowfin Shatters Current World Record appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

If you’re reading this gift guide, you know gift shopping for a boat owner is both easy and difficult. Boating and fishing require a lot of gear. That’s good. However, anglers and boaters use their gear for fun, so they have high standards for their tools and toys. The formula is simple: Any gift that makes boating easier and more fun is great. Whether the gift is practical, such as a life vest or cooler, or fun, such as a fishing rod or a towable toy, a boat owner is happy to have something nice to improve his experience. If you’re looking for a gift for a boat owner, look no further. 

Practical Boater Gifts

Electronics

Garmin InReach Messenger Plus: Give the boater on your list peace of mind with a satellite messenger to stay in touch outside of cell service. The new Garmin inREach Messenger Plus offers messaging and tracking with the ability to send voice messages and photographs. Connected to the Garmin Connect app and Iridium satellite network, the inReach is easy to use with my cellphone. When I’m fishing offshore and the bite is hot, I simply message my wife I am going to be late. I can even message other boaters who have an inReach messenger. And, the new Messenger Plus system allows me to send photos of my catch before I reach the dock. The unit fits in a pocket so I keep it on me when I’m on the water. I take my inReach on land-based adventures too. The inReach gives the gift of confidence and safety anywhere on Earth. 

Safety

Mustang Survival M.I.T 100 Automatic Inflatable PFD: In addition to the mandatory wearable foam life vest I carry for every member of my crew, I also have a Mustang Survival M.I.T. 100 Automatic Inflatable PFD I wear when I fish alone. The inflatable life vest is light and low profile so it doesn’t interfere with fishing or boating. When the lifejacket’s trigger mechanism is submerged, a CO2 canister inflates the bladder automatically for 28 pounds of buoyancy. Or, I can manually inflate the life vest with a pull cord. Since 87 percent of boating death victims were not wearing a life vest, the Mustang M.I.T. Automatic Inflatable leaves no excuse to add to the statistics.

Trolling Motor

Minn Kota Riptide Saltwater Transom Mount: If your gift list includes a kayaker, canoeist or row-boater, Minn Kota’s Saltwater Transom Mount trolling motor will make them very happy. With shaft sizes from 30 to 42 inches and power ratings from 40 to 55 foot-pounds, the Riptide and 12-volt battery powers anything from a sit-on-top kayak to a small skiff. There are a lot of transom mount trolling motors, but the Riptide has been tested and redesigned with corrosion-resistant parts, sealed electronics and a composite shaft. To extend battery life, the computer controlled variable throttle maximizes energy efficiency at any speed. Even if your angler fishes freshwater, the Riptide Saltwater will extend the life of his trolling motor. The Riptide Transom mount is so popular with kayak anglers, aftermarket mounting brackets are available for almost any brand of fishing kayak. 

Luxury Gifts for Saltwater Fishing

Blacktip Inshore HD1 Spinning Combo: When a new angler asks me to recommend a fishing rod, I suggest starting with a six-foot, six-inch medium-action spinning combo like the Blacktip Inshore HD1 Spinning Combo. This combo is so versatile I can fish everything from topwater lures to bottom rigs. The short rod is easier to manage and transport and the action provides flexibility to cast a light lure and backbone to beat a nice-size fish. The Blacktip rod and reel are perfectly matched to assure the best performance. With a sealed drag and anodized aluminum spool in the reel and stainless steel line guides on the rod, the combo will provide many years of happy fishing memories. Blacktip Inshore HD1 Spinning Combo is a perfect example of a quality rod and well-built reel combined to save a few dollars. 

Coolers

Yeti Roadie 24: I strive to give practical and tasteful gifts. Yeti coolers fit both categories. Not only is the Yeti 24 Roadie an overbuilt and perfectly designed picnic cooler, but it looks cool and fits anywhere. The 24 quart cooler is narrow to stash behind a car seat and tall to fit a wine bottle. Boaters and anglers need a variety of coolers and nothing keeps contents cold like Yeti. The tough rotomolded body and super efficient insulation with a rubber gasket around the lid trap cold air and keep four Yeti ice packs frozen for hours and food or fish cold for days. When I’m on a road trip, I keep a Roadie 24 in the backseat with Yeti Thin Ice packs to maintain lunch meat and beverages for days. When I give a Yeti cooler, my friend rips off the gift wrap and their face lights up with the cool colors, smart design, and visions of years of adventure ahead.

Towable Toys

Rave Sports Razor 2: My boat is a serious fishing machine, but I can turn it into a recreational vehicle by adding a Rave Sports Razor 2 trick tube. My family loves a boat ride and a towable tube is a perfect excuse to cool off on a hot day. The two-person tube is easier to transport and store on my 20-foot boat. On the water, the sporty triangle design with heavy handles and PVC-coated hull is easy to maneuver at any speed. Even if the gift recipient has other towable toys, the Razor 2 adds a sporty element to tubing and doesn’t take up a lot of space in the garage.

Gift Shopping for Boaters Can Be a Breeze

Gift shopping for boat owners and anglers is difficult. I have a long wish list of very specific items. That leaves a lot of options for gifts but a super picky gift recipient. A great gift goes directly onto my boat. A substandard gift goes into a box in my garage. My advice is to learn what the friend or family member needs or wants. Then, research the best examples in the category because quality and features are important to anglers and boaters who depend on their gear to have a good time.

The post Gift Guide for Boaters appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Much like your insurance policy, the bilge pump might not make the list of the most exciting things on your boat. When you need it, however, having the right bilge pump can make all the difference.

What follows is a guide on how to choose the right bilge pump for your boat. It breaks down the universe of options and relays some of the most common types and applications of boat bilge pumps.

While not every jurisdiction legally requires vessels to carry bilge pumps, they are essential pieces of boating safety equipment. Even if you plan to take a canoe out on the lake or river, you’d be well served to bring along something that serves as a bilge pump—even if it be a bucket to scoop and expel water that might enter the boat. 

Types of Bilge Pumps

When it comes to bilge pumps, there are several primary categories. These include electric bilge pumps that are powered by your boat’s battery system, generator or shore power, manual bilge pumps, and automatic and non-automatic pumps. 

  1. Electric Bilge Pumps

Electric bilge pumps are powered by your boat’s battery system, shore power, or generator. They consist of automatic pumps that come on at regular intervals, bilge pumps that are activated by float switches, and those that are operated via a switch on a panel.

Bilge pump float switches are a common choice, and for good reason. When water rises to the level of the switch, the switch rises and activates the pump. The pump then expels water and the switch lowers back into position.

Some bilge pumps consist of an integral float switch that is built into the unit. These may be easier to install (less wiring) and are a good choice for tight bilge compartments.  Other bilge pumps are wired to an external float switch. They function the same way, but the pump and the float switch are separate.

The Rule Industries 1500 GPH Electric Bilge Pump is a great all-around pump. With a flow of up to 1500 gallons per hour, it runs on 12V direct current.

Electric pumps like this may be connected to a bilge pump float switch. The Rule Industries 1500 GPH electric bilge pump is compatible with a 1 1/8-inch hose. You’ll always want to match the inflow and outflow diameter of the pump with that of the hose that you purchase.

West Marine provides a great suite of products that are commonly bought together including the float switch, heat shrink butt connectors, and bilgeflex hose options that are designed for use with the pump. 

  2. Manual Bilge Pumps 

Manual bilge pumps consist of a lever or handle that creates suction to draw water out of the boat. Rather than utilizing your boat’s batteries to power the pump, manual pumps are operated by moving the handle or lever to create suction and expel water through an outflow valve.

The Jabsco Amazon Universal Pump is a great option for a manual boat bilge pump. It features push-fit ports with port sizes of 1.5 inches.

Manual and hand operated pumps can save you and your boat in the case of loss of power. Sportfishing breaks down how useful a hand pump can be in the case of an emergency. 

  3. Automatic vs. Non-Automatic Bilge Pumps 

Automatic bilge pumps can be programmed to come on at pre-set intervals. These are a great choice for boats that regularly spend time connected to shore power.

The Rule 1800 GPH Automatic Bilge Pump, 110V is a notable option. It is computerized with programmable interval options. With a capacity of 1800 gallons per hour, this pump is ideal for larger recreational boats that regularly hook up to shore power or use a generator.

The pump runs on alternating current (shore power) and comes with a 24’ AC cord. It is computer-controlled and does not require an external float switch for operation. Bilge pumps with float switches are another form of automatic bilge. 

Non-automatic bilge pumps are those that are not programmed to run at set intervals but instead are activated manually by a switch at the helm. The Rule 2000 GPH Electric Bilge Pump is an example of a non-automatic bilge pump. It features high capacity, supports dry run protection, and is available in 12V and 24V options. 

Selecting a Bilge Pump for Your Boat

When it comes to selecting the right bilge pump for your boat, there are many factors to consider.

  1. How big of a bilge pump do I need?

Bilge pumps are measured by capacity. This is expressed in terms of gallons of water pumped per hour. The higher this number, the more powerful the pump.

The larger your boat and the greater the volume of the area that potentially needs to be evacuated of water, the larger the size pump you’ll need. You might imagine that smaller boats need less powerful bilge pumps, but they also need to take on less water to experience a large problem. So smaller boats might actually consider a pump of at least 500 gallons per hour. Sailboats, or those with larger internal spaces, might need more bilge pump capacity than longer boats with smaller internal compartments.

As a general rule, smaller boats up to 22 feet should consider a bilge pump of 700 gallons per hour. Powerboats in the range of 24-26’ should consider 700-1,100 gallons per hour.

Larger boats require greater bilge pump capacity. The specifics will vary with the setup of your boat, but consider this a guide: boats to 30’ consider bilge pump capacity of 800-1,200 gph, 30-35′ 1,000-1,600, 35-40’ 1,600- 2,300.  

  2. Factors to consider when choosing

When choosing the right boat bilge pump, you’ll consider the following variables:

• The size of your boat—and how much water the bilge pump could be required to expel in the case of emergency.
• The dimensions of the compartment where you will install the pump—you’ll want to make sure that the pump will fit.
• Be sure to match the voltage requirements of the pump to that of your boat’s battery system or shore power setup.
• Are you most comfortable with an integral float switch or will you install an external float switch? 

Installation and Maintenance

  1. Where are bilge pumps located on a boat?

Located in the lowest part of the boat, a bilge pump is designed to evacuate water from the interior of the hull. The water pumped out of the bilge may be from rain, washdown, spray from the ocean that enters while running, or in the event of an emergency, your bilge pump is the piece of equipment that can stand between your boat sinking or maintaining buoyancy.

The type, size, and number of bilge pumps that your boat needs depends on the type of vessel you operate. On larger boats, or those with multiple compartments, an adequate bilge pump setup likely requires a separate pump in each compartment that could collect water. 

  2. How to install a bilge pump

To maximize its functionality, you’ll want to install your bilge pump as low as possible. In addition, you’ll want to keep your discharge hoses as short as possible—the greater the distance that water has to travel, the less powerful your pump will be.

You’ll also want to use a smooth bore hose for the intake and discharge. This reduces friction and improves function. Be sure to follow manufacturer guidelines for wiring and hardware components. You’ll also want to use waterproof butt connectors to protect the wiring components. 

  3. Maintenance tips for longevity

As with most things, proper maintenance can improve the performance and shelf life of your bilge pump. Here are some tips:

• Inspect wiring periodically. This is important with anything in saltwater.
• Check for leaks that could expose your bilge, and your bilge pump, to excess water. Using bilge cleaner and keeping the compartment clean can help with leak detection.
• Check impeller and discharge hoses periodically.
• Clean the pump regularly- removing sediment and build-up can help your bilge pump last longer. 

How and When to Use a Bilge Pump

Every boat should have a bilge pump. Many consider them among the most important pieces of safety equipment on the water. 

  1. When should you turn on a bilge pump?

Your bilge pump should operate anytime there is excess water in the bilge. Float switches are positioned at the level of water that should activate the pump.

The Albin Bilge Monitor system allows you to check bilge water and battery levels on your smartphone. Such systems are a great way to know how your pump is performing and when you need to turn on the boat bilge pump. 

  2. Steps for proper usage

Bilge pump usage is largely defined by the type of pump. Automatic pumps and those with float switches should come on at pre-set intervals or when water in the bilge reaches the level of the switch.

Panel switch-operated bilge pumps should be activated to remove water as needed.  Manual pumps are much the same. If your boat has multiple compartments that could collect water, you might consider a bilge pump for each compartment.  

Troubleshooting Common Issues

If your bilge pump is experiencing problems, check for these common issues:

• Power issues related to faulty wiring or battery problems.
• Clogged intakes—if debris or sediment clogs the intake, your boat bilge pump will experience restricted flow and lower performance.
• Restricted discharge flow- check that the hoses are clear or debris and kinks
• Be sure that your discharge hose is high enough above the water line to avoid siphoning

If your boat bilge pump is still experiencing problems after checking for these common problems, you might consider replacing it. Remember, the bilge pump is one of the most important pieces of safety equipment on the water. Make sure that yours is properly set up for your boat, well maintained and in good working order. 

About the Author: 

Elliott Stark is the author of The Book on Travel Fishing. He publishes FishTravelEat.com and has fished on four continents.

The post Choosing the Best Bilge Pump appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

When Should I Fish a Jig?

In the yin and yang of tackle design, the development of specialized gear can be circular. Thus, with jigging gaining in worldwide interest and popularity, tackle manufacturers make better and better jigging gear. At the same time, with manufacturers making better and better gear, jigging seems to make commensurate gains in popularity. As a sport, jigging is a niche within the niche of saltwater fishing, and it has generated a range of reels and rods made especially for fishing jigs.

Jigging is now extremely popular for almost all offshore fishisng, except billfish. Bottom species such as groupers, rockfish and snappers eat jigs. The mid column and surface species such as jacks, yellowtail, mackerel, wahoo and mahi slurp a jig. Even the mighty tuna, with its species variety, attack a jig.

But all jigging tackle is not created equal: There’s gear made for speed jigging and for slow-pitch jigging. The difference, in brief, is critical because each method requires different gear. Speed jigging means relying on longer, thinner “knife” jigs that are worked upward with a rapid, rhythmic cadence. Slow-pitch jigging involves considerably more finesse; these jigs are moved with a quick upward lift, then allowed to drop a short distance as they take up the slack line created by the lift.

What Reel is Good for Jigging?

Types of Reels

First up in determining what reels will work best for your fishing: the type—spin or conventional. The majority opinion among experts suggests that for speed jigging, either spin or conventional can be fine. But for slow-pitching, think conventional.

“Slow pitch is all about finesse and sensitivity,” says Paul Chua, a jigging expert at Saltywater Tackle. It’s also about “understanding the underwater conditions, jig action, and currents through your line and rod to the angler. Conventional reels don’t have the gyro movement of a spinning reel and can better transfer all the movements of a jig to the angler.”

For speed jigging, Chris Wong, of Jig Star USA rods, also favors conventionals. The conventional reels not only handle heavier jigs better, but they also deal with the “brutality of mechanical [speed] jigging,” including dealing with big, tough fish such as yellowtail and tuna. “With spinning gear,” he says, “I found myself struggling to even turn the handle” after hooking such species. “Spinners struggle in this area, whereas conventional reels excel.”

Slow-pitch enthusiasts require lighter lines, often in the 20- to 40-pound range. Some slow-pitchers will go considerably lighter, seeking the thinnest braids they can find, to get jigs very deep—more than 2,000 feet for some Japanese experts, Wong says.

Jigging Reel Weight and Power

Jigging requires endlessly lifting reel and rod repetitively; lighter reels are a huge plus. The trend toward smaller reels for jigging has produced some remarkably compact conventional reels capable of holding plenty of surprisingly heavy line (it’s far more difficult to radically downsize spinners without losing key performance parameters).

“Once you’re over 20 ounces a reel, it gets to be a bit much,” says Benny Ortiz, a Shimano pro staffer. “Over 25 ounces, and it is too much.” He cites a time not so long ago when jig anglers had to rely on reels weighing 30 to 40 ounces (which in case your math isn’t so good, means a couple of pounds or more). Now, he says, he can jig 800 feet of water with a tiny lever drag weighing about 15 ounces. But Ortiz does caution against “sacrificing strength for light weight,” which in part is where the quality of the reel comes into play.

Fishing Reel Gear Ratio

Here again, the nod goes to conventionals because many offer an option for two speeds. The high speed (typically at least 6-to-1) helps speed jiggers move the lure quickly, and also works well for slow-pitchers, Chua says. The low gear, of course, offers power when winching a fish away from bottom.

Fishing Reel Line Capacity

Keep in mind line capacity as well. If you intend to use a rig for dropping into really deep water, you’ll want to go conventional because many hold far more line for their size than spinners.

Fishing Drag

Clearly how much available drag a jig angler needs has much to do with his quarry. For smaller fish, most good reels of any type are likely to suffice. But for bigger game, 25 to 50 or more pounds of maximum drag will help win battles. Chua says drag is particularly important with slow-pitch jigging because when hooked up, the reel tends to do most of the work. (In speed jigging, the angler relies heavily on the rod to tire the fish.)

The Price of Quality Fishing Reels

Performance differences between the two types of reels aside, cost can be a factor, Wong says: “It’s a fact that a premium spinning reel will cost more than a premium twin-drag conventional.” You want a jigging reel to be machined with tight tolerances: “no back play or handle slop,” as Ortiz puts it. He also says he prefers a taller, narrow-spool reel because it gives you a more consistent rate of retrieve. In wide-spool reels, the smaller line-on-spool diameter you’re left with when fishing deep means fewer inches per crank. Star-drag conventional reels are fine, but experts tend to prefer lever drags.

What is a Jigging Rod?

Jigging rods are designed for one purpose, Ortiz says: “to impart an action on a jig.” Not many rods truly do this effectively, he adds. A quality rod for jigging should, in Ortiz’s opinion, “have the ability to properly work a jig at various depths. The hallmark of a good jigging rod is an ability to effortlessly move a jig in deep water.”

Before picking out a jigging rod, Chua advises, “know where you’ll be fishing, with what types of jigs and weights, what line class, and in what depth and currents.” Also, “beware of manufacturers who rebrand inshore blanks with a reconfigured grip and guide layout, and then call them slow-pitch rods,” Ortiz advises. Serious, purpose-built jigging rods should show a rating both for braided line and jig weight. Some key parameters experts consider in rods for jigging include:

Rod Action

Wong recommends rods with softer parabolic actions for most jigging. That allows the rod to load up on the upstroke and release on the downstroke. “It’s this loading and unloading recoil the angler feels; this will assist in developing the rhythm that’s so essential,” especially for speed jigging. Stiffer rods can still function this way if an angler uses larger, heavier jigs. Chua agrees that a parabolic (“slow”) action is best; its bounce-back capability is useful and less fatiguing both in working jigs and fighting fish.

The Length of a Fishing Rod

For deeper jigging, Chua’s speed-jig rods range from just over 5 feet to 5 feet, 7 inches. He says in shallower water, where water resistance is much less, he likes a rod from 5 feet, 7 inches to 6 feet, 3 inches. Most slow-pitch rods run 6 to 6½ feet.

For speed jigging, Wong prefers short rods — 5 feet or a bit more. But for anglers using a less aggressive style than his, somewhat longer rods might be preferred, particularly with spinning reels. Song generally fishes 5- to 6-foot rods, noting that he prefers a moderately fast action in slow-pitch rods, with a “soft and delicate tip” but plenty of backbone.

A Lightweight Fishing Rod

In jigging, where anglers are lifting repeatedly for long hours, weight—as with reels—is key. Good jigging rods are generally light. Recent advancement in rod design and materials allows for feather-light jigging sticks that are remarkably strong. Chua cites jig rods weighing about 10 ounces that can handle 300-pound tuna—“no kidding!” He says nano carbon fiber and graphene are probably the most advanced materials available for jigging rods.

Many of these rods are available only overseas and at steep prices. It’s worth noting that most tackle manufacturers in the United States are now offering excellent jigging rods, including those specifically for slow-pitch enthusiasts. Examples include Accurate’s line of Valiant rods, Okuma’s Metaloid slow-jigging rod, and Shimano’s Grappler Slow J1 and Trevala S jigging and casting rods.

Picking Jigs for Fishing

Best Metal Jig Styles

For speed jigging in deep water, Wong recommends streamlined, tail-weighted jigs. “These get down fast and are less likely to be pushed around in the current.” But, he points out, these also have less action on the retrieve, so the jigger has to work them hard and fast to make them swim. Chua’s also all about bottom-weighted, or tail-weighted, jigs for speed jigging. These drop in a sharp darting, wobbling, sliding action.

Long knife jigs with a wider profile are Chua’s pick for tuna in particular; for grouper and amberjack, he’ll fish those long tail-weighted jigs. On the other hand, Song prefers short, center-balanced jigs for tuna.

Center-weighted jigs that are long, wide and flat are Wong’s choice for water that’s shallow or moderately deep. “These have a lot more action on the lift and drop. Their flutter also offers more hang time, which is especially valuable where shallower depth means less area to cover in the water column.”

For slow-pitch jigging, Wong likes the “original, wide-body keel jig, the jig that made slow-pitch so popular. It’s easy to fish and responds to all nuances of rod movement.” He also likes “short, cigar-shaped jigs,” particularly in deeper water. “When worked, these exhibit a rolling, tumbling action, different from conventional tail-weighted jigs. Chua prefers slow-pitch jigs that are flat on one side and rounded on the other.

Ortiz points out that “it’s a common misconception that slow-pitch jigs have to be short, fat and flutter a lot.” In fact some longer, narrow jigs work well for slow-pitching, and their shape gives them a very quick fall into deep water. “The trick,” Ortiz says, “is knowing how every jig in your bag will fall.”

Opinions vary on colors, but Chua mentions a preference for glow jigs that luminesce, particularly for deeper waters. As for size, many experts use jigs no heavier than necessary to reach bottom or any level they desire in given conditions. Chua also points out that, particularly with slow-pitch fishing, it’s paramount to match jigs, per their weight, to a rod’s action.

About the Fishing Experts Mentioned in this Article

Paul Chua: Born and raised in Singapore, Chua began joining fishing adventures to Malaysia when he was 11. Since then, he’s fished the world, and been in the jigging and popping tackle business since 2007. Chua currently lives in the Northeast and is one of the jigging experts, along with Sami Ghandour, at Saltywater Tackle in Sayreville, New Jersey.

Benny Ortiz: Florida-based Ortiz (@mrbennyortiz) is a jigging master, whose expertise and success in slow-pitch has made him a featured speaker at various seminars as well as the subject of coverage in many regional and national magazines. He’s a member of several pro teams, including Shimano.

Kil Song: Song has been described as a “jigging master.” Since 1980, the New Jersey resident has averaged more than one in three days on the water, many in some of the most productive jigging grounds around the world. Song operates the popular online specialty shop: jignpop.com.

Chris Wong: An angling enthusiast who also runs a fishing-tackle import/distribution company in his native New Zealand, Wong’s regular trips to Japanese tackle exhibitions have given him an appreciation for the development of speed (“mechanical”) and slow-pitch jigging. Since 2007, he’s been producing his own brand of jigging rods—Jig Star—with frequent trips to New Zealand’s Three Kings Islands and Ranfurly Bank, which are among the world’s toughest testing grounds.

The post How to Choose Jigging Fishing Tackle appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Time to break those old habits. I’ll be the first one to admit I have some when it comes to ­fishing with soft baits. Often those habits take shape after successful trips. I think, “Heck yeah, I’ve got these fish figured out!” Then, on the next couple of trips, I’ll get skunked.

Soft plastic lures come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and colors, making them suitable for targeting a variety of fish species. They can be rigged in so many different ways, with new options being dreamed up all the time. Today’s soft plastic lures are more durable than ever; they can withstand multiple casts and retrieves without losing their effectiveness.

Techniques for fishing with soft baits shouldn’t remain static. The same old baits can stagnate in their effectiveness. Take advantage of better fish-catching opportunities by using different styles of fishing, trying new lures and techniques, or even considering a wider range of target species. Pick up some new habits.

Freshwater Fishing Lures in Saltwater

Daniel Nussbaum, president of Z-Man Fishing, learned the costly consequences of sticking to the same presentations, especially during slow fishing periods. “I was fishing in South Carolina with Drew Reese,” says Nussbaum. Reese is the former tournament bass angler who finished seventh at the inaugural Bassmaster Classic. “Reese caught eight quality seatrout in a row from the back of the boat, while I failed to get a bite on my three staple trout baits.”

Reese had chosen a finesse rig, also known as a Ned rig, similar to the style of bait he uses in summer for smallmouths at Lake of the Woods, Ontario. The rig consists of a ⅙-ounce Finesse ShroomZ jig head and Hula StickZ (a buoyant creature bait with rear tentacles). Nussbaum stuck with his lead-head Trout Eye jig head and ElaZtech soft bodies that imitate baitfish.

“At the next few stops, we quietly poled and drifted across several flats in search of schools of redfish, and Reese proceeded to boat several quality redfish while I struck out again,” Nussbaum says. “Reese expertly played the fish on his light gear with 6-pound braid, 10-pound fluorocarbon leader and light-wire hooks. He was putting on a clinic using Midwest finesse tackle and tactics.”

Nussbaum realized why the bass master’s baits and presentation were so effective. “Reese slowly raised his rod three times before allowing the presentation to settle to the bottom,” he says. “He always allowed the bait to reach the bottom at least once on each retrieve, noting that the bait standing up off the bottom and moving slightly mimics a small minnow dying or feeding.”

Twitch Baits as Soft Plastic Fishing Lures

A growing number of soft-plastic baits now come rigged with trebles, taking up real estate once reserved only for hard baits. Break the mindset that only hard baits can be twitchbaits or topwaters. The most established soft-bait brand to produce twitchbaits with trebles might be the one with Paul Brown’s namesake, now produced by MirrOlure. Some Gulf Coast anglers recognize them as Corkys.

“I think predators hang on to them for a bit longer due to the fact that they’re soft and more realistic in feel,” says Capt. Tommy Thompson, a past executive director of the Florida Outdoor Writers Association. “We use them only in colder weather, when big seatrout are moving slowly and want slow-moving prey that’s easy to catch.”

The Paul Brown line of baits recently introduced topwater models to complement its suspending twitchbaits. Thompson favors the Devil twitchbait model, with a built-in wire harness, ­single treble hook, oversize eye and short “rat tail” at the rear.

“Use a very slow retrieve, just keeping the plug off the bottom. A random twitch will cause the plug to die, and that’s when predators like trout and reds are more likely to attack,” says Thompson. “I’ve caught 60 trout on one, but it takes just a single bluefish to cut one in half. A 2500-class reel on an 8-foot rod with 10-pound PowerPro works just fine for these plugs.”

Use Weedless Lures All Day Long

Fishing with weedless soft baits is and always has been a productive technique in estuaries, creeks and other inshore waters. But for many, the jerkbait is just a single tool in the box when fishing in shallow waters. I propose that the jerkbait become your prized tool, like a hammer that’s used regularly in around-the-house projects. Make sure there’s always a rod rigged with a jerkbait and worm hook whenever you’re fishing shallow waters less than three feet deep.

“If you retrieve the jerkbaits fast, you can skim them on top for surface strikes,” says Adrian Gray, fishing photographer and creative director at the International Game Fish Association. “If you fish them slower, they suspend if not heavily weighted. Plus, they land softer than most hard-body lures and spook fewer fish.”

The inshore scenarios where weedless baits excel illustrate their versatility. You can cast them under mangrove overhangs or docks, on top of oyster beds or grass beds, or even along rock jetties or shore breaks.

“I find that if I have someone fishing with me with little experience casting to shorelines or structure, a weedless jerkbait affords the angler more confidence to cast closer to structure with less risk of snags,” says Gray. “Plus, worm hooks are far easier to unhook and better for releasing fish than a mouth full of trebles.”

Creature Soft Plastics for Saltwater Fishing

Picking the right soft plastic sometimes defies conventional logic. If fish attacked only the most natural-looking presentations, all soft baits would come from the same baitfish molds, utilize the same natural colors, and replicate one another. But colors such as LSU’s purple and yellow are popular in ­places like Louisiana. And at times, the bait that’s shaped like a french fry can ­out-fish the mullet imitation.

“It’s all determined by our dirty marsh waters,” says Capt. Dan Skermetta of Louisiana. “Those darker ­colors show up so much better than light, natural colors.”

Creature baits that mimic crabs, eels and animals that I have never seen on this green earth also generate a profile that’s easier to pick up in murky waters. Often the baits are rigged with a noisy popping cork 2 to 3 feet above the bait.

Anglers who fish tidal zones where fresh meets salt have the opportunity to catch both largemouth bass and redfish at the same spot. Flip a jig-and-pig at reedy shorelines for both species.

In the Florida Everglades, Capt. Ray Van Horn pitches mangroves for snook, reds, black drum, young goliath grouper and tarpon with Strike King’s Hack Attack bass jig coupled with a Strike King Rage Bug (creature bait) or MirrOlure Marsh Minnow (baitfish) trailer.

“It truly is a reaction strike [I’m ­looking for] when flipping to mangroves and undercut banks,” says Van Horn. “I use a 7½-foot medium-heavy casting rod with backbone and large guides to handle the GT knot I tie between my 70-pound braid and 80-pound leader. When fish bite, they hit it with ­authority and don’t let go.”

Catch Swordfish on Soft Plastics

The dirty secret that experienced deep-droppers only recently revealed is that eels are top natural baits for swordfish. Capt. Corey Burlew, a commercial fisher­man from Deerfield Beach, Florida, found that soft-plastic eel imitations are just as productive.

“The first day I ever tried the 18-inch Hogy eel, I had five bites and two swords landed,” says Burlew. “The next day I had five bites and landed three fish. Ever since, I’ve used them with confidence.”

Curlew uses traditional electric gear for the swordfish, but at the terminal end he adds a pink or black skirt to 300-pound mono leader before ­rigging the soft-plastic eel to two 8/0 Southern-style tuna hooks. He sews the Hogy to the hooks the same way he would sew a mackerel.

“What gives action to the eel when fished deep is the current at the surface,” he explains. “I’ll head up-current, say, into 3-knot current at just 2 knots, so the boat drifts slowly back, and that imparts action to the eel at the bottom.”

So far, Curlew has landed up to four swordfish on a single soft plastic, but averages closer to two or three fish per bait. “I’ve tried marinating the Hogy in menhaden oil,” he says, “but I haven’t noticed much of a difference in my catch rate between the scented and unscented baits.”

The post Not Your Ordinary Soft Plastics appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

I eyed a spot at the southwestern tip of the Cameron, Louisiana, jetties and made a cast. My lipless crankbait hit the water.

As the lure sank, I began my normal seven-count before making the first pull. I stopped at three. It felt as if the lure had hit a rock and got stuck, so I set the hook — just in case.

The rod immediately doubled over, the drag screamed, and for the next 15 minutes, a super-sized redfish put my muscles and tackle to the test.

Catching redfish is fun. Catching big redfish is really fun. And one of the best ways to do that in early fall is with crankbaits at jetties.

Gearing Up for Fishing Crankbaits

Endless varieties of crankbaits flood the market, especially for bass fishing, but the most effective crankbaits for redfish are lipless.

As the name implies, these lures feature no protruding lip, a characteristic that allows this kind of bait to be fished at specific depths. Lipless versions can be more versatile because the angler essentially controls the fishing depth.

Rat-L-Trap has long led the industry, but my favorite is the Super Pogy by Bomber Saltwater Grade. It comes with a high-pitch rattle that I’ve found effective. Other options include the Nobondo Lipless Crankbait, Nomad Design Madscad and Biospawn Rattle Bot.

Best colors include chrome, white/black, chrome/pink, and bronze. I use a casting reel rigged with a 30-pound green P-line braid tied directly to the lure because I fish in dingy water. In clear water, add a 36-inch fluorocarbon leader if needed.

I like a medium-heavy action, 7 1/2-foot rod but have a particular preference for its composition. I learned about this while fishing over the years with four-time Bassmaster Classic champion and living legend Rick Clunn.

Super-sensitive rods actually work against you when fishing with crankbaits, Clunn told me. A fish actually pushes the lure in pursuit; if you’re fishing a super-sensitive (graphite/composite) rod, you’ll set the hook before the fish actually has the lure.

Clunn collaborated with Wright & McGill a few years back to create the S-Glass Series of rods that incorporate traditional fiberglass technology with a modern flare. I use these rods for crankbaits and have had serious success everywhere from the Mississippi River near Venice, La., to the Cameron jetties.

With glass rods, I have had far more hookups than misses because I can’t feel the bite until the fish takes the lure. You’ll find numerous fiberglass crankbait rods on the market, and they can make a massive difference in the pursuit of redfish.

Location and Technique

Around the jetties, start fishing near the boat cuts [Ed’s note: Texas jetties feature breaks in the rock wall about halfway out that allow small boats through] to take advantage of reds foraging on baitfish moving between the channel and Gulf side of the jetty rocks. “You get shrimp, shad and crabs pushing through, and the reds will move in and feed,” says veteran jetty angler Bill Killian.

Anchor up-current of the cut and work the lure against the flow. “Throw it out toward the cut, let it sink a few seconds, and then reel it in as fast as you can. The pressure of the current will allow the rattles to work really well,” he says.

Also look for jetty reds in the deep holes usually found around the southern tip of the rocks and northward about 50 yards. At these spots, the current wraps around the jetty structure and carves out large holes. Reds congregate around large boulders that have fallen off the main wall into these holes.

Read Next: More Redfish Fishing Tips

Throw out the crankbait, let it sink to the level of the rocks, and rip it. I pull a few feet and then reel a couple of cranks. Repeat that three or four times and recast. The reds usually hit just after the first pull and sometimes on the fall.

While it might sound counterintuitive, if you see dolphins feeding in the area, that’s a fortunate sign.

In my logbook, I’ve noted dolphins feeding in the vicinity every time I’ve caught lots of bull reds. The times we had fewer fish, I saw no dolphins feeding. The presence of dolphins often indicates menhaden, a primary forage species for big reds.

Releasing for the Future

As everything from algae blooms to bycatch in the menhaden fishery puts pressure on redfish populations, catch-and-release becomes increasingly important — particularly for the big, breeding-size reds that inhabit jetty systems.

Scientists say the discard mortality rate for all sizes of redfish averages around 8 percent, though the type of terminal tackle used plays a major role. In general, lures deep-hook fewer fish than J-hooked natural baits.

In fact, one fish Killian caught at a nearshore gas platform off the Sabine Pass, which I tagged for Texas Sea Grant, made a reappearance three weeks later two miles away at the Sabine jetties. As the super fat bull redfish surfaced, Killian netted it. We quickly noticed a tag covered with slime.

I removed the growth, and my heart raced as I realized the tag said Sea Grant.

After examining our data, we realized it was the same fish Killian caught a few weeks before. It taught me firsthand that releasing big fish pays off, and I will carry that and deep respect for these bulls with me for the rest of my life.

The post Fishing Crankbaits for Gulf Jetty Redfish appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

I had just cracked open a drink when the fish came up. I set the brew on the bait tank, buckled in as a tuna slurped the bait, lifted the 80-wide Tiagra out of the holder and went to work. My beer was still ice cold when we gaffed the 192-pound yellowfin.

That short, effective fight depended on the 200-pound Seaguar fluorocarbon leader, 40 pounds of drag and a true winch of a reel. But the gear doesn’t matter if you don’t use it right, and that means using its power to hurt tuna instead of yourself. I’m a big guy and I’ve caught hundreds of tuna over 100 pounds, but size doesn’t matter. I’ve seen little old ladies use the right techniques and catch fish much bigger than I ever have. My friend caught a 300-pound yellowfin on stand-up gear when he was 78.

Use a Harness and Pad to Fight Big Tuna

The key is a good harness and pad, and the ability to use it. One of my favorites is from AFTCO, designed by Greg Stotesbury. Stotesbury’s stand-up experience, like mine, is grounded in the San Diego long-range fleet. No offense, East Coasters, but most of you don’t know how to use a harness. Here’s how it works.

If you learn anything here it should be this: When fighting a fish, you should feel all the force transferred by the harness from the point of your hips down. You want the belt around your butt, not the small of your back.

In preparation, wear the harness before the bite. Wait until the fish is solidly hooked and pulling drag before you put the rod in the belt and clip in. Many fish are lost early when folks fumble with their gear instead of fighting the fish. Once you are fastened to the fish, attitude is everything. Stay calm and relaxed. Don’t let adrenaline and bad form hurt you.

How to Fight Tuna in a Fishing Harness

Proper form means good posture: Put your left hand on the reel to guide the line, with your right hand on the handle. Keep your back straight, and bend your knees enough to distribute the pressure across the tops of your quads and your backside.

Modern composite rods do all the work when kept at right angles to the rail. When the tip comes up, wind it back down. If you can’t turn the handle, switch the reel to low speed. Can’t keep up? Go to high speed. Don’t impart wild pumping motions. Instead, focus on the rod tip. Call out deep color when you see it, and wind the fish up to the gaff.

Safety Tips for Fighting Big Tunas

A couple of safety notes should be added. Every tuna is an individual, and where the hook ends up influences how the fish acts. Yellowfin tuna hooked in the upper jaw by the snout are notoriously squirrelly. You have to be prepared to react to the predictable and unpredictable, and that often means getting out of the harness.

Use S-hooks instead of clips to attach the harness to the reel lugs so you can get out quickly if necessary. And remember to back off the drag ­(gradually, don’t dump it into free-spool) when you need to get the rod out of the gimbal pad for maneuvers such as keeping the line out of the props.

How to Gain Line When Fighting Big Tuna

When you sit back and put on a lot of pressure, a fish will often run out high in the water column. Enjoy the fact that now the fish is on the losing end of the energy equation. This is the only time you can take a breather. When the fish stops, bear down on it. Try to get a turn on the handle, going to low gear if necessary.

Tuna will often respond to the ­pressure by diving in the direction of the boat, which provides you the opportunity to win back a bunch of line with no more effort than turning the handle. Be ready to go into high gear when the fish sounds, and take that easy line.

Once the fish goes into the final stage of the fight — straight up and down — it’s time to really put on the heat. Stay in one spot and keep the rod straight out from the rail. The tuna’s tail beats are reflected in the pumps of the rod tip as the fish circles — the more pressure, the tighter the circle. The tip of the rod will come up as the fish leaves the inside (closest to the boat) of the circle. That’s when you get those precious feet of line with several quick turns of the handle to bring the tip back down and keep the fish moving up. Don’t waste energy by stubbornly trying to turn the handle when you stop gaining line.

Most important, stay relaxed so you reserve the burst of energy and sharpness of mind that is usually called for at the end of the fight. Sometimes, a truly mean fish will say to hell with this and bust a big move. The telltale is an irritated shake of the head. You have to be ready to respond and follow. It’s usually over soon after that — one way or another.

The post Tuna Fishing with Stand Up Gear appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

The water along the upper Texas coast usually stays too murky for sight fishing, but on this particular late fall day, it looked crystal clear in the tiny canal that runs along Highway 87 in Bridge City. I saw flounder everywhere. I could see some as sandy outlines on the bottom; others aggressively blasted toward the surface, feeding on shrimp. Certainly, this would be a flounder fisherman’s dream come true. Not so. I offered multiple baits as I walked along the canal’s edge. The flounder refused all of them.

Use Smaller Lures When Flounder Won’t Bite

Having just returned from a crappie-fishing expedition, I still had a medium-light-action spinning rod rigged with fluorocarbon line and a 2-inch curl-tailed grub in the back of my truck. A curl tail is my favorite flounder lure but this one was half the size of my normal presentation.

Out of desperation, I walked back to the truck and grabbed the rig. Then, I waited for one of the feeding flounder to move. The first cast produced nothing. But the second one scored and so did the third. By the end of the day, I had released 17 flounder.

That unexpected windfall happened in late November, just after the peak of the fall flounder migration into the Gulf of Mexico. On that day I learned a valuable lesson that allowed me to score on quality flounder during the run as well as successfully extend fishing efforts into the winter.

A few years back, a gentleman named Ben Jarrett outfished me on a redfish trip by using a tiny topwater when I was throwing a super-size Super Spook. “Elephants eat peanuts,” he said, echoing the familiar expression. To this day that serves as a reminder that sometimes I need to downsize gear to catch big fish.

While big flounder sometimes eat large mullet, they seem just as satisfied eating 100 tiny menhaden. They ambush prey, so they tend to feed on what the currents bring them. In the late fall and winter, that’s often tiny baitfish and crustaceans.

Light-Tackle Flounder Fishing

My favorite rod for this application is a medium-action Abu Garcia combo spooled with 8-pound-test fluorocarbon line. Fluorocarbon features the same refractive properties as water, and is killer for catching flounder in clear water in particular. It also offers better abrasion resistance than monofilament.

For general flounder fishing, I actually prefer braided line, especially when pursuing big fish. I normally use 50-pound SpiderWire on medium-heavy-action rods. However, when using microplastics, I need a finesse approach. Yes, I lose a few with the light tackle but I get far more bites than on the other rigs, starting about the third week in November through Valentine’s Day.

Soft Plastic Baits for Flounder Fishing

My favorite micro lures include the 2-inch Mr. Twister Teenie (in pink for off-colored water or luminescent for clear water), and the Mr. Twister Sassy Shad in the 2.5-inch size and in clear silver-flake/black-back. Mr. Crappie’s Shadpole Curlytail in the salt-and-pepper color and the Bobby Garland Baby Shad in the eclipse or hologram-ghost patterns also work. All of my small lures for flounder come from the freshwater world, which shows we should not limit ourselves to a particular section of the tackle shop.

If the water looks dingy, fish obnoxious colors like pink but if it’s clear, use natural colors. Flounder are very visual fish and sensitive to tiny changes in water clarity and lure-color presentation.

I rig small plastics on a 1/16-ounce jighead and crawl them slowly across the bottom. If you feel a hard “thump,” count to two and set the hook. If you feel a slight tap on the line, wait about 10 seconds and then set the hook. Sometimes flounder simply grab a lure and hold on. Give them a few moments to move the lure inside their mouths.

How to Find Flounder Late in the Season

To target late-season flounder, look for canals and shorelines that provide the fish with quick access to deep water. When temperatures fall, these holdover flounder move into deeper, warmer water but come back shallow to feed as temperatures rise. Generally speaking, the southern half of a bay system and channels leading to the Gulf produce best.

When you start hearing about anglers catching big trout along the spoils in ship channels and around deep-water drop-offs, go to those same locations and look for flounder. Both species seem to move from deep to shallow water at similar times.

When south winds push slightly warmer water in from the Gulf, fish the rising tide for good action. Slight variations in temperature can make a huge difference to flounder. Any south-facing shoreline can also be good on days with strong wind because baitfish push up against the banks.

As fall segues into winter, fish slow. If you think you’re fishing too slow, you’re probably not fishing slow enough. Start with a super-slow approach, and then if you’re not getting bit, speed up. The fish don’t scatter at this time of year, so locate fish and focus on an area with a high probability of catches. Once you establish a bite, fish slowly and be aware of their delicate strikes.

When to Keep Flounder and When to Release Them

Flounder are super popular all along the Gulf Coast, but some issues have erupted for the stock due to rising Gulf water temperatures, commercial pressure, and other factors. In 2021, Texas instituted a closure to all flounder harvest from Nov. 1 to Dec. 14, making the fishery catch-and-release only during this time. I release all flounder measuring 20 inches or more any time of year and recommend other anglers do the same. The greater number of big, breeding-size fish we put back, the better chance for quality flounder fishing in the future.

Due to the incredible taste of flounder, anglers generally consider them a prize for the table and don’t generally release them as they do snook or speckled trout. But flounder deserve the same respect. Keeping the smaller, legal-size fish to eat and releasing the big ones has worked for other species and can help ensure the future of the southern flounder.

The post How to Catch Flounder With Micro Jigs appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

As we skimmed over the mirror-calm surface of Saint Andrew Bay, en route from Sun Harbor Marina to the DuPont (Highway 98) bridge that separates Saint Andrew from East Bay, I marveled at how large an area of inshore waters sprawled northwest, northeast and southeast of Panama City. I had no idea.

“Our entire system includes four bays,” explained Capt. Matt Smith, our guide for the day: “West Bay, North Bay, Saint Andrew Bay and East Bay.” These total up to nearly 170,000 acres of water, Smith pointed out. And a glance at a map shows an astonishing amount of fishable shoreline.

Given the ideal weather on that ­early-summer morning, I kept looking for other boats with anglers also intent on hooking some bull redfish. But as Smith positioned his 21-foot Cobia bay boat near the bridge channel and dropped anchor, I noted that we had the whole area to ourselves.

Bull Redfish at the Bridges

We intended to fish some of the Storm soft plastics that my fishing partner, Dan Quinn, had brought down with him from Minnesota. Smith had plenty of small, live menhaden — cast-netted that morning — filling his baitwell, and he explained that plastics could be dynamite in shallower areas of the bays, but here in nearly 20 feet of water, they were a much tougher sell.

Nevertheless, the intrepid Quinn did hook a good fish on a Storm 360GT Searchbait soft-plastic, his first bull red drum ever. But bowing to the power of live baits, we put some of Smith’s pogies to good use, landing several more reds to at least 30 pounds, giving our light ­spinning outfits quite a workout.

Then the air show started. It takes a considerable distraction to make die-hard anglers redirect their attention from a live bait in imminent likelihood of being eaten by a rapacious trophy-size redfish, but when F-16s, F-22s and other fighter jets began sneaking up on us — moving so fast that unless watching, we were aware of them only when they thundered by overhead in the blink of an eye — it became hard to concentrate on other things.

There’s nothing to bring out the 8-year-old in a lot of guys like fighter jets, and it turned out we were fishing in their flight path — lots and lots of them — practicing takeoffs and landings at Tyndall Air Force Base, a stone’s throw south of the bridge.

I think Smith was amused at our awe, having long since gotten used to this phenomenon. Gradually, I managed to focus on the reason we were here. It helped that the frequency of overflights slowed. About the same time, the tide slowed as well, as then did the redfish bite.

Light-Tackle Fishing Action in the Bay

Fortunately, we began seeing splashes and swirls as something drove small white bait to the surface. I picked up a little Shimano Stradic 3000 and slid a Rapala Shadow Rap Shad in an albino shiner color (think white pearl) onto my snap, tossed it out, and began erratically working the lure jerkbait-style, in sharp, quick snaps. Almost at once, in a silver flash, I had hooked up. The bushwhacker turned out to be a small bluefish.

Quinn joined me, throwing a small 360 GT Largo Shad on a light lead-head, and both of us stayed busy with slashing strikes of small but always aggressive blues, with ladyfish and Spanish mackerel mixed in. Soon, Smith weighed anchor and we headed farther up into East Bay.

Somewhere in the vicinity of mid-bay, the sounder displayed the bottom abruptly rising from about 8 feet to 3 feet or so — a large sandy shoal. Though usually fishier (and apparently at times troutier) than it proved today, we did hook some jacks, and I landed another, considerably larger, Spanish mackerel while fishing the same Shadow Rap Shad, and missed what might have been a small tarpon.

By this time — midmorning — we had caught sight of maybe two or three other boats with anglers, and appreciated the tranquility of the East Bay. That, however, was about to change.

Flounder in the Free-for-All

Flounder fishing in these waters can be productive this time of year if you fish the right place. On this day, Smith said, the right place would be Saint Andrew Bay Pass, where the Gulf funnels into and out of the extensive bay system surrounding Panama City.

The pass and waters around it proved to be pretty antithetical to our experience back in the bays, with all manner and sizes of boats heading in and out. Despite the traffic, Smith dropped anchor and, bouncing in the washboard of wakes, we dropped live pogies to the bottom, about 30 feet down. Once again, Smith proved true to his word: Shortly after, we boated our first southern flounder and, just after another, a small gag grouper.

Intent on adding to the day’s already notable variety, Smith moved us to the end of the east jetty, a favorite spot to catch mangrove (gray) snapper. Bingo: We caught several gray snapper, on little liveys just off the rocks (keeping our lines away from the personal watercraft dashing around jetty’s end).

By then it was about midday. Smith, like most inshore guides here fishing the long days of summer, generally runs two half-day trips — roughly 7 a.m. to noon and 2 p.m. to 6 p.m., or thereabouts. So we headed back to the marina, plenty satisfied after a busy, fishy outing.

June’s a great time to connect with the variety these bays offer, but then, it’s hard to go wrong anytime. “We truly have a year-round inshore fishery here,” Smith says. That includes trout and reds on the flats, spring through fall (the morning we fished, the tide wasn’t right for that fishery).

October and November are Smith’s favorite months to focus on fishing the inlet for bull reds. (Smith customarily releases redfish to help ensure the future of this outstanding fishery.)

March and April find him there targeting sheepshead. Summer baitfish migrations offer the best action for flounder, mangrove snapper and Spanish mackerel, as well as species drawn in by the bait, including jacks, bluefish, blacktip sharks and sometimes tarpon.

Offshore Fishing Panama City Beach

A change-up was in store for our second and third days fishing out of Panama City. Armed with slightly heavier gear, we met up with Capt. Matt Parramore and our third angler, who happened to be Matt’s spouse, Jennifer, in his Cape Horn 27 at Panama City Marina to fish offshore.

The sunny, calm weather of the day before had given way to gray skies and the sound of rolling thunder here and there, so we opted to target nearshore waters with bait and lures — again, with variety in mind. Fishing anywhere from a couple of miles off the beach up to 10 or 12 miles out, we spent a good bit of our time drift-jigging in 60 to 130 feet of water on a variety of spots from Parramore’s little book of numbers.

Typical of the northern Gulf, large structural relief from the generally flat bottom wasn’t required to find fish; even small areas of modest rubble could hold predators. Casting a mix of Williamson Koika metal slow-pitch jigs and Arrow Head lead-head bucktail jigs, we did particularly well with king mackerel of respectable size (and some a good bit larger), as well as — inevitably — red snapper (though we released all of them by law) and other species.

Had red snapper season been open and had we wanted to target them, Parramore could have put us on some larger wrecks typically covered with snapper. Beyond red snapper, a dozen or more species will very possibly be pulled over the gunwales on any given day fishing offshore of Panama City.

With the jigs performing well, we ended up using few of the live cigar minnows that Parramore had bought at a bait receiver after leaving the marina. We added a couple of big kings to the total by trolling Rapala’s deep-diving X-Rap Magnum 40s.

While drifting the northern Gulf, it can pay to try whatever artificials you think could work. I had fun with some smaller kings and tunny while casting and retrieving with hard jerks a 5-inch X-Rap Saltwater crankbait on one of the light (inshore) spinning outfits I’d brought. Although we didn’t break out the kites that day, Parramore is a fan of dangling live runners from kites for big kings and other surface-oriented game fish.

Peak Time for Pelagics off Panama City

While the action can be good anytime of the year, weather permitting, late spring/early summer is Parramore’s favorite period. “The water’s starting to warm up, and baitfish are migrating in close,” attracting coastal pelagics such as cobia and kings, as well as amberjack and snapper. About that time, larger bluewater pelagic game fish turn on as well. While Parramore typically focuses on the variety of coastal pelagics within an hour or so of the beach, the skipper is all about bluewater big game. Given the shallow slope of the Gulf, he points out that a run of 60 to 120 miles is required to fish where blue marlin roam.

On the other hand, offshore game fish (other than blue marlin) can be found at times within a few miles of the coast. “I’ve seen people catch dolphin and sailfish off the pier!” he points out.

Species Availability: Panama City

Whether near or far, dolphin (mahi) rate as a favorite for Parramore. “I love fishing for dolphin. We run-and-gun a lot, looking for weeds and floating debris. Dolphin are usually under whatever we find.”

Parramore is a member of the Dolphinfish Research Tagging Program; he notes that a dolphin he tagged 20 miles off Panama City was recaptured 45 days later off Freeport in the Bahamas.

My take-away from this visit to Panama City is that there’s no shortage of activities and events going on in a destination that is succeeding as a Gulf tourist mecca. But anytime I should happen to be back here, I’ll be focusing on the fishing, since there’s always something going down, inshore or offshore.

About Panama City, Florida

Panama City is part of what is widely termed Florida’s Emerald Coast, after the color of nearshore waters, at times having a distinct clear-green hue. Many of the activities that attract visitors are water oriented, not surprising given the waters of several sprawling bays and, outside, the Gulf beyond the sandy beaches. To get more info on all that Panama City has to offer, visit destinationpanamacity.com.

The post Panama City Fishing Paradise appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

The Simrad Cruise 7 Chartplotter/Fishfinder Combo is one of the most intuitive and user-friendly chartplotters on the market. Equipped with an 83/200 transducer and pre-loaded US coastal charts, this all-in-one system makes GPS navigation simple and stress free.

Pros

Intuitive Interface: The SIMRAD Cruise features easy-to-navigate menus and rotary dial controls, allowing you to access charts, routes, and sonar data effortlessly.

Comprehensive Mapping: Pre-loaded with U.S. coastal maps and a worldwide basemap, it supports upgrades to enhanced charts from C-MAP® and Navionics® for more detailed navigation.

Advanced CHIRP Sonar: The included 83/200 transducer utilizes CHIRP sonar technology, providing clear and detailed views of fish and underwater structures.

Cons

Limited Networking Capabilities: Lacks advanced networking features found in higher-end models, such as NMEA 2000 connectivity.

The YETI Roadie® 24 Marine Cooler is a compact yet robust solution for keeping your beverages and perishables cold during outdoor adventures. Designed with enhanced features, it offers increased capacity, improved insulation, and user-friendly portability, making it a reliable companion for boating, fishing trips, and more.

Pros

Portability: Its slim design fits behind the front seat of a car, making it ideal for road trips and fishing excursions.

Ease of Use: The Quicklatch system allows for easy, one-handed access, enhancing user convenience.

Increased Capacity: The Roadie® 24 is 20% larger than its predecessor, accommodating up to 33 cans or 26 pounds of ice. Its internal height of 13 inches allows standard wine bottles and 2-liter soda bottles to stand upright, preventing leaks and spills.

Cons

Limited Color Options: Available in select colors, which may not cater to all personal preferences.

The Sperry Men’s Billfish 3-Eye Boat Shoe is the perfect blend of classic style and modern functionality, making it a great choice for both boating activities and casual wear. Crafted from premium leather, these shoes offer exceptional durability and a timeless look that pairs well with any outfit.

Pros

Great Traction: The Sperry Men’s Billfish shoe comes fully equipped with Wave-Siping on the rubber outsole to provide stability on wet and dry surfaces.

Cool and Comfotable: Air mesh upper panels and a shock absorbing EVA heel cup provide breathability and added comfort for long days on your feet.

Cons

Narrow: Some buyers report that the shoes run narrow but Sperry does offer wide and extra wide options for some sizes.

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