Albemarle says that its ­customers explain their ­loyalty in four components: superior ride thanks to the Carolina-style hull; fishability, especially in harsh conditions; unmatched quality in design, construction and components; and solid customer relationships.

Albemarle’s classic, dry-­riding hull with a wide Carolina flare busts through head seas, landing softly in the troughs. Helms provide unsurpassed visibility from within a huge, clear wraparound windshield and enclosure, using superior ­Strataglass and EZ2CY materials.

Albemarle hulls are hand-laid with premium components and processes, including hull-to-deck joints that are fiberglass-bonded and mechanically fastened; bronze and stainless-steel underwater gear and through-hulls; color-coded, tinned stranded copper wiring; heat-shrink terminal connections; and detailed recordkeeping throughout construction. 

Albemarle 30 Express

The outboard-powered 30 Express combines the offshore performance of center-consoles, with a well-appointed cabin (including galley with solid surface countertop, and a sink, microwave, and refrigerator) and protection from foul weather. That full galley, stand-up head and V-berth offer superb comfort. Optional side bunks make for great overnighting.

The helm area has face-­forward seating for three with a captain’s chair and a double companion seat within a standard, rigid acrylic enclosure. A hardtop is optional, as is a marlin tower. Mezzanine-style seating faces aft, where a folding transom bench seat in turn faces forward, framing the wide-open 64-square-foot cockpit, which features a rigging station—unless a cockpit galley is optioned in its place.

The deck contains two macerated 56-gallon fish boxes. Cockpit features include a 30-gallon transom livewell, a tackle center, tackle/storage cabinets with drawers, and a transom door for access to the Armstrong outboard-engine bracket.

Fishing options include ­additional rod holders, electric-­reel outlets, outriggers with telescoping poles, and coaming pads. General options include a Seakeeper 2 gyrostabilizer, a diesel generator, and Flexiteek decking for the outboard bracket, helm, and cockpit. A teak and cherry sole is available, as are underwater lights.

Base power is twin Yamaha 350s with options of triple Yamaha 300s or twin Mercury V-10 400s available.  With Yamaha power, Helm Master EX electronic steering is standard, and the full-maneuverability upgrade is available.

Editor’s Note

The hull of the 30 Express features solid, hand-laid fiberglass, with the stringer grid built from closed-cell foam and encapsulated in fiberglass, tabbed into the hull, and fully glassed in. The transom is Coosa Composite-­cored—no wood to rot. -Jim Hendricks

Performance Data

• Test Power: Triple Yamaha F300 outboards
• Test Props: Yamaha 15″ x 20″ SWS II 3-blade stainless steel
• Test Load: 200 gal. fuel, 3 people, and safety and test gear
• Test Speed: 31.9 mph at 3,500 rpm
• Max Range: 331 miles (with 10% reserve)

Specifications

Albemarle Boats – Edenton, North Carolina; albemarleboats.com

The post Albemarle 30 Express: 2025 Boat Buyers Guide appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Over the course of a little more than a year, ­brushless technology has permeated the ­market for saltwater trolling motors. Offering improved efficiency, stealth and ­durability, brushless electric motor technology is becoming available from a growing list of major trolling-motor brands, and appears to be ensconced as the future of electric propulsion when it comes to positioning anglers to catch more fish. 

All of this advancement raises an interesting question: Is there any reason to opt for a ­conventional (old-fashioned) brushed unit when it comes time to buy a new trolling ­motor? No…­unless you’re someone who just doesn’t need the benefits of brushless or if cost is a primary concern.

By removing the friction and electrical waste of a mechanical brush in contact with commutator plates to spin the armature, brushless technology has achieved marked efficiency improvements leading to increased power and decreased battery drain at the same time. Without friction, a brushless motor is also a quieter motor. The only claimed benefit yet to be tested on these new units is improved durability, and that’s only because they haven’t been on the water long enough. Theoretically, without physical contact from a brush, there is less wear and tear taking place during operation.

Garmin, Minn Kota, Power-­Pole, Lowrance and Simrad have all introduced brushless saltwater trolling motors within the past couple of years. They all feature GPS guidance, rugged marine-grade construction, sophisticated technology, and advanced system integration. Here’s a quick look at their features and capabilities.

Power-Pole Move

The Move PV series saltwater trolling motors from Power-Pole feature pivot mounts, brushless motors, GPS guidance, wireless controls, and virtual anchoring. Move’s brushless motors are engineered to deliver power at lower rpm. A super-strong titanium shaft carries a lifetime guarantee. Advanced electronic technology includes built-in GPS navigation with features such as Anchor mode and Active Vector Heading navigation. 

Move PV motors are available in 24 and 36 volts, ­delivering 78 and 100 pounds of thrust, ­respectively. A ­variety of user-friendly wireless controls include a ReelFeel foot pedal, which provides the ­sensation of cable ­steering and the ability to put it ­anywhere on the boat. There are also wireless foot buttons available to activate the Anchor and Active Vector Heading modes. Power-Pole’s ProNav app can enable a mobile device to become the ­trolling-motor controller. 

The PV series is available in 45-, 52-, 60- and 72-inch shaft lengths, and comes in black or white. It starts at $4,999.99. For more, visit power-pole.com.

Minn-Kota Instinct

Minn Kota’s top-of-the-line Instinct models feature Quest brushless motor technology and push-button deploy and stow. The Riptide Instinct operates either on 24 volts for 90 pounds of thrust or 36 volts for 115 pounds of thrust. Shaft-length choices include 60, 65, 87 and 100 inches.

These motors also have beefy composite shafts and pivot points, and the motor incorporates real-time ­battery monitoring with a “time until empty” indicator, which prompts anglers to switch to Eco mode when reserves drop to 20 percent. Features include built-in i-Pilot and i-Pilot Link GPS-enabled guidance functionality such as Spot-Lock virtual anchoring and Drift mode, which works like a virtual drift sock. 

Control options include a GPS wireless remote to drive the motor from anywhere in the boat. Riptide Instinct offers compatibility with the One-Boat Network for easily networking with and controlling via a ­Humminbird multifunction display. Available in black or white. Starting at $4,399.99 for a 60-inch-shaft model. For more, visit ­minnkota.johnson​outdoors.com.

Garmin Force Kraken

Garmin’s Force Kraken ­brushless saltwater trolling motors are engineered with a pivot-style mount for easy installation on boats where bow space is limited. With manual deploy and stow, they offer anglers seamless, wireless integration with Garmin sonar systems, multifunction displays, and smartwatches.

The Kraken features a brushless motor and high-­efficiency propeller to produce 100 pounds of thrust as a 36-volt system or 80 pounds as a 24-volt system. Anglers can also easily install live sonar thanks to a cable-­management system that routes the transducer cable inside the trolling-motor shaft. With the Kraken LiveScope mounting bracket (additional purchase required), any Garmin LiveScope transducer can be installed and operated in all three modes: Forward, Down and Perspective. 

The Force Kraken series includes 48-, 63-, 75- and 90-inch shafts to accommodate most boats from skiffs to larger center-consoles. The included wireless remote gives anglers control of the trolling motor with precise virtual anchor lock, autopilot functionality, heading hold, and point-and-go gesture steering. Kraken is available in black and white, with suggested retail prices from $3,599.99. For more info, visit garmin.com.

Simrad & Lowrance Recon

The new saltwater trolling ­motors from Lowrance and Simrad share the same model name—Recon—and possess the same design, including a brushless motor that operates on either 24 or 36 volts and produces 90 and 115 pounds of thrust, respectively. 

These manually deployed, electric-steered trolling motors boast a unique joystick remote called Freesteer. Incorporating a color LCD display, the remote is lightweight and wearable, providing 360 degrees of manual steering, as well as activation of automatic functions. With the Lowrance version of Recon, the remote can be combined with a wireless foot pedal with programmable keypad and seamless display integration via an NMEA-2000 network. The Simrad version grants full ­integration with a Simrad multifunction display via an NMEA 2000. 

Recon trolling motors also feature GPS-guided virtual anchoring that holds boats within a 3-foot radius. A unique jogging function allows anglers to execute diagonal moves in eight directions. There’s also the ­option to move virtual anchor positions in almost any direction. The carbon-fiber-­infused shafts carry lifetime warranties, while the motor carries a ­three-year warranty.

The Recon trolling motors integrate sonar technology and are available with a sonar nose-cone option. Recon models are available in 54-, 60-, and 72-inch shaft lengths, and start at $3,499. To learn more, visit ­lowrance.com or ­simrad-yachting.com.

Rhodan

Rhodan is one of the few saltwater trolling-motor brands that has not yet switched to brushless electric-motor technology. 

However, it has been a pioneer in building big, tall and tough motors for the brine. The HD GPS Anchor+ saltwater trolling motors feature pivot mounts and digital pulse width modulation circuitry to maximize efficiency, minimize heat dissipation, optimize power, and extend battery life. A wireless and waterproof floating remote-control fob controls the trolling motor from anywhere on the boat. 

Available in 12-, 24- and 36-volt models delivering 80 to 120 pounds of thrust, these motors also have the unique ability steer the boat while the main engine is at low power, allowing trolling at higher speeds and anchoring in heavy current. The Anchor mode -automatically compensates for wind, waves and crosscurrent. 

The Rhodan integrates with Raymarine Axiom MFDs to adjust thrust and motor direction, and to activate Anchor mode. This -system enables Axiom to steer the trolling motor when it is active and control a Raymarine Evolution autopilot when the motor is stowed. The HD GPS Anchor+ is available in black and white, in shaft lengths ranging from 36 to 108 inches, and starting at $2,399. Visit rhodanmarine.com to learn more.

The post Why Anglers Should Consider a Brushless Trolling Motor appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

It was a rough ­wintertime crossing of the Gulf Stream as we powered to the fabled fishing grounds of the Bahamas aboard a pair of Sōlace 41-foot center-­consoles. The 41 CS was powered by four Mercury 400 outboards. The 415 CS featured twin Volvo Penta D6 DPI diesel ­sterndrives. One boat made a better time of it. 

This trip was the latest in a string of “Outboard Versus Sterndrive” stories I’d produced over my decades working as a boating and fishing journalist. As in the past, we had planned to compare, out on the water, the different power choices available to boat buyers so that a better-informed purchasing decision could be made. The biggest challenge in producing these “versus” stories is getting access to two of the same-model boat powered by different engines. In Sōlace Boats, we had a great common denominator: These 41-foot hulls are designed and built to the highest standards and can be had with your choice of gas outboard or diesel sterndrive power. Giddyap!

Most of you will recognize that beyond propulsion type, this story also compares fuel type. The outboard Sōlace 41 CS burned gasoline, while diesel fueled the sterndrive-powered 415 CS. Here’s what we discovered regarding seakeeping, fishability, and ownership issues such as maintenance, fuel ­economy, and price.

Speed and Acceleration

We loaded both boats to the hilt with people, gear, camera equipment, and provisions for a week among the islands. The DPI-powered 415 CS hit 50.6 mph at wide-open throttle. Accelerating to 30 mph took 12.2 seconds. Each DPI turns a stainless-steel H8 Duoprop propset (Volvo Penta does not reveal Duoprop prop pitch) consisting of two ­contra-rotating propellers spinning through a 1.69-to-1 reduction. So this Volvo Penta D6 DPI diesel propulsion package spins four propellers—two inline pairs.

The outboard-powered Sōlace 41 CS hit 62.7 mph at wide-open throttle and reached 30 mph in 14.5 seconds. Each of the four outboards spins a 14.6-by-21-inch four-blade prop through a 1.75-to-1 reduction. That’s four individual propellers for this outboard-propulsion package.

“Exhilarating” describes the outboard-powered boat’s top speed, a result of more power and more available bow trim. “Surprising” describes our initial reaction regarding the superior acceleration of the boat powered by the Volvo Penta DPI diesels. We attributed this off-the-line performance to the D6’s high torque at low rpm and the Duoprop’s ability to transmit that diesel torque to the water better than conventional props. Finally, the reduced drag of two versus four gear cases helped. Still, if the need for top speed is strong with you, then the outboards win. 

Efficiency and Range

Because the power and torque characteristics of gas and diesel engines—as well as inboards and outboards—vary, it is helpful to make efficiency comparisons using boatspeed as well as rpm.

At 25 mph, the outboard boat netted 0.53 mpg and the ­Volvo Penta boat netted 1.13 mpg. At 30 mpg, the gas boat netted 0.6 mpg and the diesel boat 1.28 mpg. At 40 mph, we recorded 0.63 mpg and 1.2 mpg, respectively. ­Basically, the ­diesel boat featured twice the efficiency.

Note that the outboard-­powered 41CS carries 681 gallons of fuel, and the 415 CS carries 457 gallons. Also note that each D6 engine with a DPI drive weighs about 1,760 pounds dry, whereas each Mercury 400 Verado weighs in at 670 pounds dry. Bear in mind that an outboard’s power rating describes prop-shaft power, and an inboard’s power rating describes crankshaft power. Each Volvo Penta D6 DPI ­delivers 422 hp at the prop.

It became apparent the ­minute we arrived at Abaco Harbor Resort that the Volvo Penta 415 CS offered much more range than the Verado-­powered 41CS. The 415 CS still possessed plenty of fuel after making the ­215-mile run from Palm Beach. The gas-powered 41CS needed to fuel up so as to have enough fuel to safely conduct our tests over a ­couple of days. Diesel power lends this boat some 40 ­percent more range.

Seakeeping

We headed offshore from the Florida coast into the teeth of a stiff headwind that generated 4- to 6-foot seas right on our nose. Both Sōlace models handled the waves safely and with confidence. But our test teams agreed that the Aquamatic-powered 415 CS made easier work of it. Unlike its outboard-powered counterpart with the engine weight aft, the D6 diesel engines turn the DPI drives using jack shafts, which allows installing the engines forward of the transom, under the cockpit sole. Moving the center of gravity results in the 415 CS running more level and with less pitching. The 415 CS handled rough water better.

On balance, we also discovered that the outboard-powered boat offered more bow trim for those times when one wants to optimize the ride for running in a following sea or ­trying to maximize speed. And the outboard-powered boat proved quieter (65 versus 68 decibels), especially at trolling speeds, though the Volvo Penta boat was by no means loud.

We test for minimum planing speed because the ability to slow down while retaining the maneuverability and dynamic stability provided by planing allows for better control and more comfort in rough conditions than having to slow to trolling speed. The Volvo Penta-powered boat netted a slight edge here, holding plane at 15 mph versus the Mercury boat, which held plane as slow as 17 mph. Know that both are excellent numbers.

Docking

Both Volvo Penta and Mercury offer joystick systems for slow-speed close-quarters operation of the boats they power. Both systems worked well in gusty, tidal Bahamian winter conditions. Do note that as we went to press, Volvo Penta introduced Assisted Docking for DPI, an updated version of its joystick system that uses DPS and special software. I sea-trialed the system (aboard the exact same 415 CS detailed in this story). The big ­takeaway? It takes the “drift” out of joystick maneuvering and sets a new bar in close-quarters-­maneuvering systems. 

The Mercury outboards tilt completely clear of the water. Additionally, the outboards are made from a corrosion-resistant aluminum alloy, bonded to control the electrical potential, and feature a multistep coating process called MerCathode. Their successful operation in salt water is long-proven.

“These are not your daddy’s marine engines,” Volvo Penta’s Arjen Steegstra states. The DPI drives are made from a special alloy, bonded to control electrical potential and fitted with sacrificial anodes. The stainless-steel propsets are isolated to prevent corrosion, and a special coating protects the drive. Furthermore, an impressed current anti-corrosion system, the same one that has protected Volvo Penta IPS for years, thwarts the ravages on water-stored boats.

The D6 diesel engines are freshwater-cooled, made from a corrosion-resistant alloy, protected by sacrificial anodes, and specially painted. Volvo Penta D6 diesel engines boast a long history of saltwater service.

Effect on Layout

From the console forward, both of these Sōlace boats are the same, offering private overnight accommodations for a couple, and a comfortable head and shower belowdecks. A large multipurpose bow cockpit forward combines seating with stowage, and functionality for fishing, anchoring and docking is as good as can be found. Aft is where the layout changes. With four outboards mounted on the transom, the cockpit of the 41CS affords a tremendous 83-square-foot unobstructed cockpit. Highlights include twin livewells in the aft corners, and a huge transom fish box to complement those in the aft cockpit sole and the bow space. There is mezzanine seating atop the tackle station/entertainment center, with its stowage, sink and optional grill. There’s hideaway bench seating for three at the transom, and with the huge cockpit and stowage space below the sole—which swallowed provisions for six for a week—the 41CS boasts plenty of room to stow folding chairs and beanbags. The solid transom provides great security for fighting a fish in rough seas. Water access for crew or hauling aboard a big fish is through a generous portside door. This is a fishing cockpit. 

The Volvo Penta-powered 415 CS sports twin D6 diesel engines installed in the cockpit, leaving two broad walkways to a transom that is wide open for water access or easy dockside boarding and entertaining. The actual engine box is a plush convertible lounge that allows guests to recline, sit facing forward or aft, or lie completely prone. Unobstructed cockpit space is smaller than that aboard the 41CS—about half the size between the entertainment center and the base of the lounge. You must add in the walkways, though, because they provide another 24 or so square feet of usable space on both sides of the lounge; we had no trouble working rods in the aft corner’s rod holders while trolling. 

I will say that the doors that close off each ­walkway on the 415 CS are less ­secure compared with the solid bulwark found aboard the 41CS. ­Excepting the transom livewells and fish box, the fishing ­accoutrements are the same. The in-sole stowage is smaller aboard the 415 CS, but still plenty big. In short, this is a multiuse cockpit optimized for entertaining and ease of water access that can fish too.

Key Takeaways

There’s little question that the gasoline-fueled outboard engine currently ranks as the most popular power choice for large center-consoles. They run quietly and virtually smoke-free. They deliver outstanding power for their weight, along with low drag and trimmable thrust, all of which contribute to their great efficiency. 

That said, I not only fished the Volvo Penta D6 DPI diesel-­powered Sōlace in the ­Bahamas, but also fished it during another multiday trip to the boisterous waters of Nantucket Shoals, Massachusetts. (We absolutely slammed the striped bass!) From these experiences, I can say that diesel sterndrive power is an option that offshore anglers seeking more range and improved seakeeping should seriously consider.

A Tale of Two CCs: Sōlace 41CS and 415 CS

Sōlace is a company founded on open-minded adoption of new materials and processes, many of which have set new industry benchmarks. This is tempered by decades of experience in fiberglass boatbuilding, what the company calls “The Dougherty Difference,” a reference to the current -president, Stephen Dougherty, and his late father, Bob Dougherty. In short, a Dougherty has helmed four different award-winning and iconic boat companies.

With the 41CS and the 415 CS, all of that imagination, vision, experience and expertise is wrought in molded fiberglass. These boats ride a twin-stepped hull that we have experienced to be seakindly, efficient, fun to run, and free from quirks—from New England to South Florida and beyond.

• LOA: 44’3″
• Beam: 12’3″
• Transom Deadrise: 22 degrees

The post Outboard vs. Sterndrive appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

You love your ­saltwater fishing boat—it has served you well. Yet, we all evolve and ­experience life changes, and sometimes this means your erstwhile dream boat no longer fulfills everything you want to achieve as a boating angler. Is it time to upgrade? Here are key factors to consider. 

Life Changes

The changing seasons of life definitely play a part in deciding when to upgrade to a new boat. “We often hear from boaters who started out with a small dual- or center-console when they were single, then marry, have kids, and their needs change,” says Shelley Tubaugh, vice president of marketing for Grady-White.

When kids come along, it is good to upgrade if the family intends to do a lot of boating and fishing. A larger boat offers room for a bigger family and their friends, and a comfortable head for days spent out on the water. These are the times when the decision to upgrade is a slam dunk. 

That evolution continues when the kids go off to college. “Now perhaps the couple wants an express or a walkaround cabin to overnight on long weekends at the Bahamas or cruising the Intracoastal Waterway,” Tubaugh observes. This life change also may have the couple wanting more than one boat, perhaps purchasing a model such as a Grady-White Coastal Explorer—not so much an upgrade as an addition—for inshore fishing or to spend days relaxing at the local sand bar, she adds. 

Greater Adventure

While many boating anglers are content to fish inshore or just off the beach in a bay boat or small center-console, many yearn for greater adventure. If this sounds like you, it’s probably the time to update your ride. 

“Upgrading to an offshore-­capable boat such as the Canyon 336 with triple Yamaha 350s means you can chase big fish in deeper water, way offshore, and bring along more of your fishing buddies too,” Tubaugh points out. The more time you plan to spend on the boat and farther out you plan to fish, the more important it becomes to upgrade to a larger, more powerful boat, she says. 

New Technologies 

A big reason to upgrade to a new boat—be it bigger or not—is to avail yourself of the latest in boating technology and power. “New developments in marine technology are absolutely changing how we boat,” Tubaugh says. “That trend is driving many boaters to upgrade to newer models.”

Some new technologies are retrofittable to older boats, but many of the latest advances, such as the Yamaha Helm Master EX controls, Seakeeper gyrostabilizing systems and air conditioning, are generally installed at the factory when the boat is under construction. As such, you will need to buy a new boat to experience and enjoy such technology.

With new technology comes the need for new learning. “Make sure you have a dealer who can teach you how to use all of these new features of your boat, engine and electronics, and answer any questions when you go out on your boat,” says Tom Harris of Atlantic Marine, North Carolina, one of Grady-White’s largest dealerships. “It won’t do you any good to have it if you don’t know how to use it.” Once you learn how to use the technologies, you won’t want to boat without them. Storage and Transport 

A number of other factors can influence if and when you upgrade. For example, if you plan to keep your new boat on a trailer, find out if your tow vehicle can safely transport, launch and retrieve the boat. If not, you need to add in the cost of a bigger truck, and if the price is too high for your budget, it might not be the right time to upgrade.

If you don’t trailer, think carefully about where and how you will store the boat—be it in a slip at a marina, on a lift, or at a dry-stack facility. Each of these will incur different costs, perhaps ones that are to become a large part of the ongoing expense of upgrading to a new boat. Once you know and evaluate your budget, you will have a much better idea of whether to upgrade now or wait a while.  

Cost of Repairs  

One of the biggest reasons to upgrade to a new boat is the age and state of your existing boat, engine(s) and onboard systems. As boats age a decade or two, the number and frequency of repairs can put a strain on your budget and ­patience, and cost you ­downtime that you might ­otherwise spend fishing.

Each boat owner will have to make the personal decision as to when enough is enough, but eventually you may well reach the point at which repairs, refurbs and refits are not worth the trouble any longer—and this is the time to upgrade.

Maximizing Resale Value

Selling your current boat is often part and parcel of defraying the cost of buying a new one. But how do you maximize the retail value and selling price of your current boat?

“It’s not about years; it’s about hours and condition,” says Tom Harris of Atlantic Marine in North Carolina. “A very-well-kept five-year-old boat with low engine hours, say under 300, will hold value better than a two-year-old boat that’s had less care and has 400-plus hours on it.” Yet, this is tempered by the specific market area and the economy at the time, Harris adds. “If a boat is in a market where people use their boats more hours in a year, people generally understand that a boat with 400 to 500 hours still has lots of life in it,” he explains. “However, in a market where people use their boats less frequently, buyers generally want a used boat with fewer hours, again, 300 or less.”

General market conditions can also affect used-boat values. For example, when the new-boat market is slowing or soft, then the used-boat market can often be slow as well, Harris says. 

The post When to Upgrade Your Boat appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

The popularity of ­outboard-powered multihull (aka catamaran, or cat) fishing boats has grown tremendously over the past few years as ­increasing numbers of boatbuilders enter this market. Yet, traditional monohull fishing boats still hold their own. As an angler looking to buy a new boat, it’s nice to have choices, but it also adds a new ­dimension to the ­decision-making process.

Ultimately, however, you are bound to ask: Which one is the best for saltwater fishing—a cat or monohull? The answer hinges on a number of factors and your personal angling ­preferences. Let’s look at the key factors. 

“A strength of the catamaran is that it has such low drag,” says Gino Morrelli, catamaran designer, whose design credits span from America’s Cup contenders and Olympic-class cats to power cats for charter use, up to a record-setting round-the-world 125-foot cat. “It’s just basic hydrodynamics: Two slim hulls have very low resistance. They push much less water than one wider hull and therefore require smaller engines and increase efficiency.”

If you’re thinking about a single outboard engine, you can stop thinking about buying a cat. By virtue of the design, nearly all cats must be powered by twins or quadruple motors—no singles, no triples, no quintuples. For any of these latter outboard configurations, you’ll need a monohull, which can also accept twins and quads. Now that we have that simple fact established, let’s look at additional factors to consider when shopping for a new fishing boat.

Cats can provide a softer ride than a monohull in a seaway because their knife-like hulls easily slice through the waves rather than crush them. “Two sharp hulls pound less in a seaway too,” Morrelli says. Cats also tend to remain flat throughout their speed range. On the other hand, monohulls—especially deep-V hulls—tend to experience bow rise when accelerating, though step-hulls have less bow rise than conventional V-hulls. 

The ride between cats and monohulls differs in other ways. For example, the motion of a catamaran in waves is more like a cantering horse, which some people like and others don’t. At low speeds in a beam sea, some power cats can have a sharp roll as swells pass under each hull separately, but monohulls also roll considerably, which is why gyrostabilizers have become popular aboard them. But the roll moment is different for each, and you might prefer one motion to the other.

That said, the inherent stability of the catamaran design rolls less with the seas, making fishing offshore less tiresome and more comfortable. Available from 20 to 48 feet, catamarans typically offer a large fishing platform with generous storage and fishing amenities. They are available in a wide variety of deck layouts, including center-consoles, dual-­consoles, and even pilothouse and express variants.

In hard turns, many catamarans remain flat or even lean outboard somewhat, which can intimidate inexperienced skippers more used to the inboard bank of a monohull. Handling is another factor to consider, and catamarans have both good and bad features. With the engines widely spaced in the two hulls, a catamaran is more maneuverable at slow speed and spins easily by using its engines. A monohull, with the two engines close together, requires more power and technique to spin.

The downside of handling a cat is the much wider beam: Turning a platform that is more than half as wide as it is long can take planning, especially in narrow channels. That wide beam has another downside: It might not fit into many marina slips, which means with a cat, you might be relegated to end ties (with more wave motion) or on side ties along a seawall. Catamaran slips are often more expensive too. With monohull saltwater fishing boats, the beam is narrow enough to fit into most any marina slip. 

Some, but not all, cats also have weird quirks, such as “sneezing” between the hulls when running in some conditions, which sends spray over the bow, and also pounding at times at idle speeds due to air pockets between the two hulls. Draft is something else to keep in mind, especially if you want to explore shallow waters. All things being equal, a cat hull generally draws less water than a comparable monohull.

That wide beam of a cat offers upsides, including more deck space for fishing. The generous room carries well forward, rather than narrowing toward the bow, as is the case with monohulls. However, if you are looking for maximum headroom in a center-console interior, a monohull is usually the better choice. That’s because the depth along the centerline of a monohull can more easily accommodate a step-down console interior. A cat, however, has no virtually no room along the centerline for a step-down console interior. That’s because, as you might imagine, it needs plenty of room between the hulls in order to allow the seas to pass underneath the boat.

Fact is, a cat has practically no room for insole storage lockers, fish boxes or livewells along the centerline as does a ­monohull fishing boat. However, the room within each hull of a cat is often immense, so this is where builders usually locate insole fish boxes, fuel tanks and dry-storage compartments.

That brings us to personal preference when it comes to style. Early cats—the ones introduced in the 1980s and ’90s—were a tad boxy, and that lack of streamlined styling turned off many potential ­buyers. A number of boatbuilders took heed, and in recent times have integrated sleeker sheerlines to cats—so much so that when viewed in profile, it can be difficult to discern a cat from a monohull at a glance. Yet, from other angles, the two still look different. Some boating anglers prefer the classic look and flaring bow of a ­monohull; others see new beauty in the design of a cat. 

Cat or monohull—which is best? There’s no perfect boat. But by weighing upsides and downsides, and taking a demo ride in each, you might find among the two types of boats one that is perfect for you.

Symmetrical vs. Asymmetrical Cat Hull Design

When shopping for a catamaran-style saltwater fishing boat, you might come across the term “asymmetrical hull design.”

While you might infer that the two hulls are of different size and shape, the term actually refers to the differing shapes of the inner and outer walls of the two hulls.  The concept becomes most apparent when viewing a cross-section of the hulls. 

One example of this design approach is the running surface of the -Invincible 40 cat designed by the Newport Beach, California-based marine architectural firm of Morrelli & Melvin. The same -design principle has been incorporated into a -number of other Invincible cat models.  

The design is officially known as a hybrid semi-asymmetrical catamaran hull. “This asymmetrical shape allows the boat to lean inward while cornering, versus cat hulls with symmetrical cross-sections that tend to turn flat or lean outward in turns,” explains Pete Melvin, a principal in the Morrelli & Melvin design firm. 

The Invincible 40 also features two steps in each hull. Steps represent a fairly common design element of many of today’s monohull saltwater fishing boats, but an increasing number of cats also now feature steps, which ventilate the water rushing under the hull while underway to increase lift and efficiency.

With computational fluid-dynamic engineering (continued on page 24) software, the design team at Morrelli & Melvin is able to test numerous running -surfaces before construction of a boat ever begins.

“This allows us to refine the placement and design of a twin-step to maximize lift and efficiency,” Melvin explains.

In addition to the steps and asymmetrical hull design, a specially engineered pod above and between the hulls helps split the water that rushes through the tunnel in the middle of the sponsons while underway. 

This element serves to further soften the ride by aerating the water and -creating an air cushion as the boat descends off a wave.   

Not the confuse things, but getting back to our original premise, there actually exists power catamaran boat models with hulls of different sizes. 

The most startling examples come from Aspen Power Catamarans based in Washington state. The hulls of Aspen boats like the C108 are not a matching set. They’re asymmetrical.

An Aspen’s starboard hull is wider than its port hull. The thinner hull generates less drag. At the same time, each hull offers a balance between displacement and load, and that keeps the boat stable. The asymmetry goes largely hidden, except for one obvious element. 

The C108’s two outboards are not identical. On starboard is a Yamaha F200, on port an F115. Both engines share the same rpm range, and each is propped proportionately. This allows the C108 to run straight and bank flat when turning to starboard, but lean slightly outward in turns to port.

The post Catamaran vs. Monohull appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Ever since C. Raymond Hunt developed the deep-V hull in the 1960s, this hull type has been regarded as the de facto hull form for bluewater boating. Builders of everything from small center-consoles to giant canyon runners embraced the design as the way to get anglers offshore more comfortably. But with the recent rise of mega-center-consoles, step-hulls have taken center stage, leading some fishing-boat buyers to ask, “Which is the best design for me?” Each style has its pros and cons, and each type of hull might be the best for you depending on how you use your boat. Here, then, is a breakdown of the different characteristics of step-hulls versus deep-Vs.

The Deep-V

True deep-V boats have a couple of main design characteristics that make them ideal for running in rough waters. The first is the steep deadrise—the angle of the hull as it flares out from the keel to the chines. True deep-Vs have a sharper deadrise of between 21 and 24.5 degrees at the transom, compared with 15 to 20 degrees of transom deadrise of more-­moderate V-hull boats. This deeper deadrise, when combined with a narrower beam and a sharper forward entry at the bow, helps deep-V hulls carve through the water rather than slam through it or skim over the top of it. Offshore deep-Vs also typically employ hard chines carried far forward and flared bows to knock down spray and create a drier ride. Many deep-V builders use a 3-to-1 length-to-beam ratio that helps them act like a carving knife through chop and rough swells. At planing speeds, deep-V hulls also have excellent lateral stability and tend to track straight rather than wander, or “surf.” In short, a deep-V hull has more hull in the water at all times.

The drawbacks of deep-Vs are well-documented at this point. For one, they are not particularly efficient, meaning it takes more horsepower to get up on plane and stay there at speed. They tend to squat a little more out of the hole when climbing on plane and need more attention to engine trim as well as tabs to achieve optimal performance while running in different sea conditions. Deep-Vs with narrower beams also tend to roll more while at anchor or while adrift or trolling, especially when subjected to a beam sea. The deep-V creates a pendulum effect, which could make some crew ­uncomfortable or even seasick. 

These and a few other factors have resulted in builders looking to step-hull designs in recent years. Advancements in outboard power have ­obliterated the limitations of the center-console form. Whereas years ago, center-consoles tended to max out at 28 to 32 feet in length, with at most twin 200 hp outboards, nowadays, 50- to 60-foot center-consoles with quad 600 hp outboards on the transom have become commonplace. Boat buyers have also come to expect faster top speeds along with more creature comforts on board and more seating space, leading to wider-beamed boats. For many builders, the design solution to these developments has been to add steps.

The Step-Hull

Step-hulls actually predate deep-Vs in the annals of boating history, tracing back to hydroplane racing boats in the early 1900s. They started to resurface in recreational-boat building in the 1980s and 1990s, typically in offshore performance boats. Another celebrated marine architect, Michael Peters, patented a step-hull design in 1982 called the Stepped Vee Ventilated Tunnel, ushering it into modern boatbuilding. Other designers followed suit and over the years have worked to weed out the kinks associated with step-hulls to develop the modern-day models that we see today.

What is a step? It’s a notch cut into the hull bottom that extends to the outer chines of the running surface. It breaks up the flow of water as it travels aft, ventilating it with air and reducing friction. This allows the engines to push the boat through the water with less resistance. This is the No. 1 ­benefit of a step design: It creates big gains in efficiency so that you can attain higher speeds with less power. As fishing boats continually grow bigger and heavier and have to absorb the added weight of larger engines, this is a major advantage. 

Step-hulls also ­provide a ­better running ­attitude. A ­properly designed version, which often features two steps in tandem along the running surface, will help the boat attain a more level ride with less need for trim while running in ­different sea conditions.

What are the drawbacks? At lower speeds, particularly while trolling or at displacement speed in a no-wake zone, step-hulls are actually less efficient because the vented chines are fully submersed in the water and can’t ventilate the hull bottom. Steps are also tricky to get right—especially today with most bigger boats using twin steps. They have to be designed into the optimal spots along the hull bottom to properly ventilate the running surface at speed, without compromising stability.

Some early adopters struggled with issues such as bow stuffing or catching the edge of the hull—the chine—in turns.  In another noted quirk, you used to have to leave the engines trimmed up in hard turns, which runs counter to the technique of trimming the engines down while turning in a deep-V. A lot of first-time step drivers used to experience the dreaded stuffing or catching a chine when “tucking in.”

Thankfully, the best builders have had a few decades to iron out the kinks, and most step-hulls are now as predictable to handle as traditional moderate and deep-V hulls. 

So which type of boat is right for you? That depends on what you want out of your boat. The deep-V is still the most tried-and-true hull for running offshore in rough conditions, but with a step-hull, you might be able to get there faster and with a little more fuel left over for the ride home.

The post Step-Hull vs. Deep-V appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Most fishing boats are financed in one of three ways: financing arranged through a boat dealer and/or manufacturer; a home-equity loan or line of credit arranged through a bank or credit union; or a specifically designed consumer boat loan arranged with a bank, credit union, or other lender that specializes in marine financing.

There are other ways of ­funding a boat purchase, but these three represent the ­financing methods available to a great many of Americans today when it comes to buying a new saltwater fishing boat.

Even with today’s tumultuous and often-unpredictable economic conditions, there are some general assumptions that a boat buyer can hold regarding boat financing. 

For example, interest rates offered by lenders will generally be lower as the amount of the loan goes up. Similarly, shorter loan terms (the length of time required to pay it back) will ­usually provide lower ­interest rates. 

Higher loan amounts, by and large, can be stretched over longer periods of time. Depending on the amount financed, boat loans can range from terms of four to 20 years. The amount of down payment you make (typically 10 to 20 percent), as well as your income and credit score, can affect the overall parameters of the financing package.

One key factor to keep in mind is the length of the loan term versus the expected life span of the boat and the accessories and equipment on the vessel that you might be financing as part of the overall purchase. While the service lives of today’s new saltwater fishing boats are rightfully measured in decades, the same thinking might not hold for a used boat.

You don’t want to put yourself in the position of potentially having to make payments on a boat (or other equipment that was folded into the loan amount) that gives up the ghost well before the end of loan term. 

Self-Funding

Of course, not everyone needs to borrow money to buy a new boat. Maybe you’re the fortunate recipient of a trust fund or a hefty inheritance or sold your business to some deep-pocket capital venture outfit or struck it big in the crypto market. Or perhaps you won the lottery. As it turns out, in such fortunate events, you might be able to just plunk down a briefcase full of cash on a new fishing boat. But is this always a good idea? (Before you decide, make sure you’ve paid all of the taxes that Uncle Sam and others might want to collect on such windfalls because your net gain might shrink drastically versus the gross profit.) 

Don’t rush to spend your savings. The decision on whether to pay cold, hard cash for your boat is more complicated than it might seem, according to John Haymond, senior vice president for Medallion Bank and president of the National Marine Lenders Association. “It really depends on your individual financial situation and the specifics of your boat purchase,” Haymond says. 

“It’s never a bad idea to ­maintain cash in reserve, especially in volatile ­economic conditions,” he advises. “It could also be wise to put down less money and/or stretch out payments in the structuring of your financing, particularly as investment rates move higher.” 

Consulting with a professional financial and/or tax adviser in these situations will help you reach a decision that makes good money sense for you. 

Home Equity

Some people choose to tap into the equity in their homes to fund a new-boat purchase. There can be advantages to this route, beginning with the fact that interest rates on these loans are often lower than ­nonsecured consumer loans. 

Depending on the specifics of your situation, there could also be tax advantages for the interest paid on the loan. Again, it pays to consult a ­professional tax adviser on the best way to proceed when it comes to leveraging your house.

Home-equity loans can also be structured in a variety of ways, including some­ long-term options that allow you to stretch out repayment and/or afford a larger boat.   

There are unique challenges and risks to going this route. As far as credit availability, you are subject not only to personal economic conditions, but also to regional real-estate-market conditions. It’s usually a more complex process because the lender will need to examine not only your income, but also your home’s market value and ­loan-to-value ratio. You might need to get a home appraisal done as well, and that will cost you extra money. Depending on the bank or lender, there can be closing costs attached to securing a home-equity loan, and you will be the one footing the bill for this extra cost.

A home-equity loan has other implications. It can increase by years the amount of time it takes you to pay off your house, and you need to understand this if your ultimate goal is to pay off your mortgages and hold title to your home free and clear some day. In addition, if some kind of catastrophe strikes—layoffs at work, for example—and you can no longer afford to make payments on your home-equity loan and go into default on the note, the bank can and will foreclose, and you will lose your house. 

Dealer Financing

Another common option is arranging financing through the boat dealer. They work with boat loans every day and are well-versed in the nuances of getting the deal done quickly and easily. 

Dealers are also motivated to find a financing structure that works with your credit score, boat-buying budget, and ­available down payment. They want a customer who will be satisfied over the long run and rely on the dealer for years of service, fishing accessories, and other purchases. 

Exploring financing options through your dealer is a good idea, but don’t make a decision until you explore what else is available in terms of boat loans. 

Online Loans

New-boat buyers also have the option of hitting the ­World Wide Web to make their own financing arrangements. There are resources to help with this.

The National Marine Lenders Association is an organization of banks, loan-origination companies, finance companies, credit unions, and other industry professionals specializing in boat loans. While the NMLA’s primary purpose is to educate current and prospective lenders in marine financing procedures and promote marine lending within the industry, it can also be a valuable source of ­information for boat buyers.

“Many national and regional financial institutions are NMLA members,” Haymond says. Its member banks and finance companies emphasize marine lending and can offer consumers the benefit of their experience in setting up boat loans for people from all walks of life.

The NMLA website (marinelenders.org) is an excellent source of information and advice for those researching boat-loan options. The “For Boat Buyers” section of the site provides resources such as a Member’s Directory, Boat Loan Basics, Tax Deductibility information, a Loan Calculator and more. 

Discover Boating also offers excellent funding ­guidance through its website at discoverboating.com/buying/boat-financing.

“There has been a shift over the past six to eight years for consumers to finance online with a bank or credit union,” Haymond says. “It is more convenient and efficient for consumers to shop multiple finance sources for marine loans from their home than the sometimes-limited options at a dealership. 

“Today, people are accustomed to shopping online even for big-ticket items like boats and then to quickly flip over to marine finance sources to arrange financing in the comforts of their home,” Haymond adds.

There are many options to consider. However, boating anglers are a motivated and resourceful bunch who will ­typically find a way to pursue—and fund—their passion.

What About the Power?

Repower demand, especially for outboard dealers handling popular brands such as Mercury, Yamaha, Suzuki and Honda, is stronger than ever.

These engine companies, however, are also faced with production and supply-chain issues. “Loose motors” (a term used for new engines sold to the repower market) are especially hard to come by because motor manufacturers are working hard to supply OEM boatbuilder partners, who are working hard to catch up with their backlog of presold boats.

However, even in this ­environment, financing is available to fund the purchase of today’s high-­powered outboard engines, which easily run from $40,000 to more than six ­figures, depending on the size and horsepower. Buyers can avail themselves of the same channels used to fund new-boat ­purchases. There are also specific repower financing programs offered by engine manufacturers through their ­authorized dealers. One example is Mercury Repower Financing, which offers financing programs for outboard, sterndrive and inboard repowers from $5,000 up to as much as $50,000.

The post New-Boat Financing Options appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

You like to turn a wrench, wield a cordless drill, and test circuits with a multimeter. You can install all your own accessories and electronics in your garage after delivery. But should you?

The answer is not clear-cut.

Some boat buyers install their own components after the purchase to save cash on the initial acquisition and to ­substitute sweat equity for greenbacks. The main disadvantage to that is inherent in the term “sweat equity.” It can be really hard work to install electronics and other accessories after the boat is built. Wiring chases through the hull can be crowded. Often, manufacturers don’t leave chase cords to pull power, data and transducer cables. And work areas can require rubber arms to loosen or tighten fasteners.

Trolling motors and shallow-­water anchors, for example, rank above average in complexity, proving tricky to install when the boat is fully assembled.

When the boatbuilder installs accessories, access to the underside of the deck or to chases in the hull is easy because the exposed hull parts provide ample work space. Cables are more easily positioned and often loomed in with the wiring harness for the rest of the boat’s systems. Fasteners can be more easily secured and sealed than in a finished vessel. 

However, factory ­installations come with inherent negatives. For instance, moving a ­cable loomed securely into the vessel-wide wiring harness can damage other wires, as well as the system wires under scrutiny. And unbolting an accessory with fasteners located behind an inaccessible bulkhead means you might need to cut a hole for a deck plate when it comes time for replacement.

On the DIY side of the equation, you can often buy the electronics, accessories and other components you want at a discount in the aftermarket. However, several boatbuilders offer extended warranties on components such as electronics if they install them at the factory. The advantage comes at a premium, surpassing the best price of the system you want to install.

“We charge more for factory-­installed electronics,” says Jason Parsons, regional sales manager for Vexus boats. “You can often buy them cheaper at a big-box marine retailer, but our cost covers rigging and the added warranty.” Good advice.

On the other hand, the manufacturer might not offer the components you want. For example, Simrad, Garmin, Lowrance, Raymarine and Humminbird are among the most popular electronics devices aboard saltwater fishing boats, but some builders won’t install certain brands. Instead they specialize on the highest-­volume systems so that their assembly crews can efficiently manage just one system. If you are most familiar with a ­different brand, you’ll either have to find an installer, rely on the dealer, or roll up your sleeves and do it yourself.

There are some things you shouldn’t install, such as cup holders, unless, after running your boat, you just have to have one a bit closer to you. Gyrostabilizers are intense installation challenges, and if you know you want one, have the manufacturer build it in and stand behind the installation. Some builders prebuild receivers for gyros so that they can be more easily added later, but that is still more complicated than a ­factory installation during vessel assembly, and can cost more. Plus, you have another cook in the kitchen when it comes to warranty claims.

Trim tabs can be added after the delivery of the boat, but why would you? All vessels are improved by them and nearly all benefit in terms of ride and crew comfort with them. In this case, if they are not standard, order them as an option and let the factory crew install the system.

You can also roll factory-­installed electronics into the boat loan more easily than handling it afterward. It’s easy to run up a $10,000 or $20,000 or more tab on these systems. On the other hand, electronics tend to live a shorter life than today’s powerful outboards and all-composite hulls. You could be paying for your original ­electronics for years after they have worn out or become obsolete.

The best advantage of factory installation of your components is getting a turnkey fish-ready delivery so you can head out immediately instead of spending the next few months of weekends getting the boat ready to go fishing.

The post How to Add Accessories Onto Your New Boat appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

These days, you can shop for anything online—from tacos to socks to barbecue grills—and with the click of button, have it delivered to your doorstep. It might be tempting to take advantage of the same technology in making your next boat purchase, and you should. But there are still advantages to going to a boat show or visiting a boat dealership. Here are the pros and cons of each. 

Research Rules

Thanks to the internet, we now have unprecedented access to information about the boats we want to buy. So a good way to start your research online is by asking general questions in search engines to find out which type of boat best serves your needs. Whether you’re a striper angler in the Northeast or chasing redfish in skinny water down South will dictate which style of boat best suits you. Also, are you looking for a bare-bones boat to get the job done, one laden with creature comforts and amenities, or some combination that serves the family as well as the fish? 

Once you pick a few manufacturers, head over to their websites. Many builders have a “build my boat” prompt that will let you pick a power choice as well as any options you’d like to consider, and in the end provide you with a national manufacturer’s suggested retail price. With that you can build a comparison framework to see which boat fits your budget and which offers the most bang for your buck. (For example, you can see what comes standard on one boat versus options on another.) The caveat is that a suggested retail price versus the price you actually pay will likely be dictated at the local-­dealership level. Also, the dream boat you assemble on the website might not be available in inventory, and you might have to settle for what’s available on a dealer’s showroom floor or schedule a build that could take months to complete.

Third-Party Sources

Another drawback of websites is that you’re looking at every boat through rose-colored glasses—and you won’t get a full sense of any particular boat. Thankfully, we have an inventory of boat reviews online to give you expert analysis on a particular boat. (Our sister publication, Boating, also posts in-depth reviews at boating​mag​.com.) You can also watch video walk-throughs on different boats to see how they look on the water in use, not just on paper. Also keep an eye out for “roundup” articles that compare several brands of one type of boat in one place so that you can see how they stack up.

Up Close and Personal

It might be tempting to take the wealth of information available online and make a purchase, either from a manufacturer, dealer, broker or private seller, sight unseen. Yet, nothing beats viewing a boat in person to see if it passes the eyeball test. And in that regard, there’s no better way to check out several boats you might be interested in all at once than at a boat show. If you’re interested in a specific brand or style, take time to walk through not just that boat, but all of its competitors, and maybe even different styles that could be a better fit. You might find that one has a preferable cockpit but another has a better livewell setup or maybe more seating for your family. There’s no way to know for sure unless you put boots on the ground (perhaps more appropriately, on deck). Plus, you might be able to schedule a sea trial to see how it actually runs on the water.

Once you’ve narrowed down your choice, your best bet is buying through a dealer. For one, dealerships can beat the  MSRP and will work with you to rig your boat exactly as you’d like it, with the ability to install electronics or amenities that might not be offered directly from the manufacturer. But most important, the dealer will be able to service your boat. If you buy through other means, you’re likely on your own. 

The good news is, if you’ve spent your screen time researching boats instead of doom scrolling, you’ll be ­prepared enough that there should be no surprises. 

The post How to Buy the Right Saltwater Fishing Boat appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Each Aquila Power Catamaran, from 28 to 70 feet, is designed top to bottom as a pure power catamaran, and not, as the company says, a de-masted sailing catamaran.

The faster you go with this power cat, the softer the ride becomes. The tunnel between the hulls is designed to reduce drag, increase lift, and cushion the ride. The raised bridge deck enhances visibility. The transition from at rest to on plane is essentially undetectable—aside from pin-you-in-your-seat acceleration—because there is little change in trim angle and the ride stays virtually level.

Aquila cabins and salons are served by smooth, quiet, and energy-efficient variable-speed air-conditioning pumps. At the helm, Raymarine electronics provide fully integrated and seamless information and control. 

Aquila 47 Molokai 

The Aquila 47 Molokai power catamaran boasts both serious offshore fishing chops and sumptuous luxury.

This big cat features a spacious, air-conditioned stateroom with a queen-size island berth, as well as a private head and shower. Two entry doors access the stateroom, where large overhead and side windows flood the cabin with natural light by day, and let you stargaze by night.

Largest of Aquila’s three-boat offshore Molokai line, the 47 Molokai is powered by twin 600 hp or quad 400 hp Mercury Verado outboards, either of which producing speeds of 60-plus mph and a smooth, ­predictable ride thanks to the boat’s aggressive twin-step cat-hull design and strong, lightweight vacuum-infused construction. Those rides can be far—700 miles and more, depending on engine configuration—due to its 1,048-gallon fuel capacity. 

It’s a luxurious voyage, thanks in part to seven ­protected helm seats in two air-conditioned rows. Triple sundeck lounges in the bow, aft-facing seats in the cockpit, and exquisite ­entertainment ­areas at helm, cockpit, and stateroom all speak to its superb comfort. ­Raymarine electronics, C-Zone digital switching, and a Fusion audio system inform, control, and entertain.

Pressurized livewells fed by a Hooker sea chest keep bait lively, while cavernous fish boxes accommodate the largest fish on the longest trips. Electric-reel outlets provide power for deep-dropping, and the carbon-fiber hardtop is ­factory-reinforced for ­outriggers and custom towers.

Back in port, joystick piloting makes close-quarters ­maneuvering a breeze.

Editor’s Note

Stepping aboard the ­Aquila 47, I knew instantly that this was a different breed of cat. Luxury touches and world-class angling features beckoned me to set out on a long-distance angling ­adventure, prepared to catch fish, and to do so in comfort. -Jim Hendricks

Performance Data

• Test Power: Quad Mercury 400 hp Verado V-10 outboards
• Test Props: 25P RevX
• Test Load: 26,300 lb.
• Test Speed: 67mph
• Max Range: 754 miles (4500 rpm, 48 mph)

Specifications

Aquila Power Catamarans – Saint Petersburg, Florida; aquilaboats.com

The post Aquila 47 Molokai: 2025 Boat Buyers Guide appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.