Having been lucky enough to fish from most brands of fishing kayaks in the last decade, I can easily say the unstoppable trend of pedal and electric-motor power is here to stay. But it’s a huge jump to plunge into pedal drives, electric motors and electronics if you’re just getting started.

For a non-kayaker, often a sit-inside model with a plain-old seat and heavy paddle is what comes to mind. That’s like thinking a Motorola flip phone is as far as cell phones have progressed. Enter the Magellan Outdoors Pro Pedal Drive Kayak (at just $1,199.99) that’s sold in Academy Sports stores and online.

With base models of most high-end pedal kayaks starting at $2,000 or more, I was able to test out the reasonably priced kayak in Florida’s lakes and saltwater shallows this winter to see how it compared to the market. What stood out to me about the roto-molded ’yak was my ability to sight fish and cast from its standing platform.

A Thoughtful Kayak Design

The ’yak starts upfront with an oversize hatch for storage. That’s where I placed my dry bag and PFD (when I wasn’t wearing it). Throughout the boat, different accessory rails allow you to add options such as rod holders or mounts for electronics. Where your legs rest is room to stand up and fish. If you’d rather sit, use the area to spread out tackle you want within easy reach.

For propulsion, a lightweight pedal drive sits in between your legs. Pedal it like a bicycle. When you want to remove the drive, it’s as simple as undoing two pressure points on the bracket, lifting the drive straight out of the water using the top handle, and then laying the drive in a purposeful pre-molded spot that has a bungee cord to keep it in place. There isn’t much give if the drive were to run aground, so be careful.

Back in the stern, there’s a rear tank well where I bungeed down an old-school milk crate. That’s where I put most of my gear, although there’s a smaller hatch with a circular lid in the well, too. Two built-in rod holders come standard with the kayak. The steerable rudder is easy to deploy and retract with the help of two cords that run underneath the elevated seat.

The Kayak Seat Matters

When it comes to kayak fishing, the seat really matters. A good seat means fewer backaches, while a bad seat means your spine and tailbone could be sore for a week. The Pro Pedal Kayak seat has a strong and supportive structure to it, what I like to describe as similar to a beach chair. Plus, it’s elevated so anglers can store gear underneath. I put a dry box and tackle tray underneath mine.

The chair sits on rails, which allows it to easily fold forward or even be removed. Not so important on the water, but when traveling on the road, being able to quickly remove a seat while loading is a big plus. The seat is adjustable to move forward or back, higher or lower, depending on your comfort level. Make sure your legs can reach the adjustable foot pegs and pedal drive.

Behind the chair, it’s easy to reach your gear. Multiple tackle storage slots hold even more tackle trays that don’t fit under the seat. Looking forward again, within arm’s reach left or right, is where to mount the steering knob for the rudder. The knob mounts to an accessory rail, so place it in a spot that works best for you.

A Kayak Ready to Modify

At 88 pounds, with a width of 35 inches and length of 10 feet, 6 inches, Magellan’s Pro Pedal Drive Kayak is manageable without a trailer. Toss it in the back of your truck or on top of a roof rack. Max weight capacity is 400 pounds. Molded-in handles make for convenient transportation, especially if you have a fellow angler to help out.

Truly lightweight kayaks tend not to be great sight fishing platforms or can get tossed around in open waters. I didn’t feel like the wind was going to blow me away in this rig. There were a couple of times when I felt like the standard rudder and drive were a bit under-gunned, so that’s when I would pull out the paddle to help with maneuverability.

If you make the jump to an electric motor, Magellan has you covered with a vessel number, manufacturer statement of origin, bill of sale, and rigging mount ready for a bracket and electric motor. That’s the perks of buying new; less hassle at the DMV. Plus, the Pro Pedal Drive Kayak is transducer ready.

Fishing In the Backwaters

The days I went fishing were cloudy and cool. Florida shallow-water sight fishing is my favorite style of angling, but wintertime conditions had me exploring mostly mud-bottom backwaters looking for reds and trout. The deep holes on the coldest days held fish. I used a stake-out pole to anchor in positions near shoreline edges.

On one trip, I fished a local freshwater lake, standing and casting while drifting shorelines to catch fun-size largemouths. While bass seem to bite just about everything in northern states, I always find that Florida bass can’t resist a swimming worm rigged with a bit of weight. I used the pedal drive to get around docks and islands effortlessly, but heading into the wind I got a bit of spray.

Fishing in lakes much deeper than Florida has to offer seems like a completely reasonable option. No doubt, there’s an angler out there right now fishing this kayak with a trolling motor and fishfinder, absolutely slaying the bass and crappies in 30 feet. It’s a pick-your-own-adventure in today’s kayak world, and many are blazing their own trails when it comes to modifications, rigging and fishing style.

The post Review: Magellan Outdoors Pro Pedal Drive Kayak appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Any striper fisherman worth his salt knows wood plugs are deadly. The classics like the Danny, Surfster, Pencil and Polaris Poppers — to name just a few — have been catching striped bass from the beach and boats for longer than most of us have been around. They are just as effective today as ever before. But because they are often hand-crafted, the available plugs vary in quality, performance and durability. Lure makers who have tried building them at a production level often fail.

Testing OutCast Lures for Stripers

Some of the best striper plugs I’ve used were small-batch plugs made by individual artists. A few have been great, the others somewhere between mediocre and disappointing, especially when you factor in the cost. So, I was pleasantly surprised when I opened a package left in my mailbox containing three prime examples of wooden-plug-making excellence from OutCast Lures. They came with the understanding that they were mine to fish and report on. Included in the package were one each of its Pencil Popper, Hybrid Popper and Surfster models. All three looked great and felt right, so I was stoked to try them.

On my first day out with the Pencil and Hybrid lures, both quickly proved their worth. I took a 40-pound striped bass on the Pencil during a short surface blitz and several more fish on the Hybrid. The Hybrid Popper swam enticingly with very little rod input. Both cast a mile with little effort. A few days later, casting the Surfster in the Wonder Bread pattern (one of my favorite colors), I enticed two nice bass while fishing around bunker pods. These are quality plugs offered at a very fair price considering the handwork that goes into each one.

How A Lure Company Was Born

OutCast Lures grew out of the efforts of one avid New England surfcaster, and his disappointment with the quality of wood plugs that were available to him. Mike Pham was tired of fishing with plugs made from inferior wood with weak hardware, poorly thought-out color schemes, and unattractive swimming motions. It all sounded familiar to me, but Mike actually did something about it. He started creating his own plugs and experimenting. He sourced prime wood, hitting on Alaskan cedar with its dense grain and ideal buoyancy. He added weights to the tail, so his plugs cast farther than others, and finished them with the quality components, paints, patterns and epoxies.

He started with several of the most popular classic designs and made them available in limited quantities. His lures soon gained a solid reputation among New England’s hardcore anglers. His tinkering produced a solution for line tangles that often occur when casting large swimmers. By adding a magnet in the belly of his plugs, the front hook holds tight to the body. It’s called “MagNeat” and comes standard on Surfster and Danny models.

Keeping Quality While Increasing Production

The next step in the Outcast journey was to find a way to increase production without sacrificing quality and consistency. That came with enthusiastic partners and the delegation of responsibilities. Mike Holmes bought into OutCast and took over as wood shop director. Jeff Adams assumed the business development, marketing and sales manager roles. Founder Mike Pham still remains hands-on with design, paint and new plug development. The trio ramped up production to the point that two dozen tackle dealers from Maine to Maryland now stock OutCast Lures. Web sales provide even more opportunity.

True to their goal, the plugs I inspected and fished were as good as the best wood plugs I own. I will be adding more to my tackle bag in the future. They currently offer seven models in several sizes and 14 colors to match herring, bunker, mackerel and squid. And they catch more than just stripers. Jeff Adams mentioned they have some new designs under development, so I’ll definitely be on the lookout for future models.

The post Tackle Review: OutCast Lures appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

If you’re reading this gift guide, you know gift shopping for a boat owner is both easy and difficult. Boating and fishing require a lot of gear. That’s good. However, anglers and boaters use their gear for fun, so they have high standards for their tools and toys. The formula is simple: Any gift that makes boating easier and more fun is great. Whether the gift is practical, such as a life vest or cooler, or fun, such as a fishing rod or a towable toy, a boat owner is happy to have something nice to improve his experience. If you’re looking for a gift for a boat owner, look no further. 

Practical Boater Gifts

Electronics

Garmin InReach Messenger Plus: Give the boater on your list peace of mind with a satellite messenger to stay in touch outside of cell service. The new Garmin inREach Messenger Plus offers messaging and tracking with the ability to send voice messages and photographs. Connected to the Garmin Connect app and Iridium satellite network, the inReach is easy to use with my cellphone. When I’m fishing offshore and the bite is hot, I simply message my wife I am going to be late. I can even message other boaters who have an inReach messenger. And, the new Messenger Plus system allows me to send photos of my catch before I reach the dock. The unit fits in a pocket so I keep it on me when I’m on the water. I take my inReach on land-based adventures too. The inReach gives the gift of confidence and safety anywhere on Earth. 

Safety

Mustang Survival M.I.T 100 Automatic Inflatable PFD: In addition to the mandatory wearable foam life vest I carry for every member of my crew, I also have a Mustang Survival M.I.T. 100 Automatic Inflatable PFD I wear when I fish alone. The inflatable life vest is light and low profile so it doesn’t interfere with fishing or boating. When the lifejacket’s trigger mechanism is submerged, a CO2 canister inflates the bladder automatically for 28 pounds of buoyancy. Or, I can manually inflate the life vest with a pull cord. Since 87 percent of boating death victims were not wearing a life vest, the Mustang M.I.T. Automatic Inflatable leaves no excuse to add to the statistics.

Trolling Motor

Minn Kota Riptide Saltwater Transom Mount: If your gift list includes a kayaker, canoeist or row-boater, Minn Kota’s Saltwater Transom Mount trolling motor will make them very happy. With shaft sizes from 30 to 42 inches and power ratings from 40 to 55 foot-pounds, the Riptide and 12-volt battery powers anything from a sit-on-top kayak to a small skiff. There are a lot of transom mount trolling motors, but the Riptide has been tested and redesigned with corrosion-resistant parts, sealed electronics and a composite shaft. To extend battery life, the computer controlled variable throttle maximizes energy efficiency at any speed. Even if your angler fishes freshwater, the Riptide Saltwater will extend the life of his trolling motor. The Riptide Transom mount is so popular with kayak anglers, aftermarket mounting brackets are available for almost any brand of fishing kayak. 

Luxury Gifts for Saltwater Fishing

Blacktip Inshore HD1 Spinning Combo: When a new angler asks me to recommend a fishing rod, I suggest starting with a six-foot, six-inch medium-action spinning combo like the Blacktip Inshore HD1 Spinning Combo. This combo is so versatile I can fish everything from topwater lures to bottom rigs. The short rod is easier to manage and transport and the action provides flexibility to cast a light lure and backbone to beat a nice-size fish. The Blacktip rod and reel are perfectly matched to assure the best performance. With a sealed drag and anodized aluminum spool in the reel and stainless steel line guides on the rod, the combo will provide many years of happy fishing memories. Blacktip Inshore HD1 Spinning Combo is a perfect example of a quality rod and well-built reel combined to save a few dollars. 

Coolers

Yeti Roadie 24: I strive to give practical and tasteful gifts. Yeti coolers fit both categories. Not only is the Yeti 24 Roadie an overbuilt and perfectly designed picnic cooler, but it looks cool and fits anywhere. The 24 quart cooler is narrow to stash behind a car seat and tall to fit a wine bottle. Boaters and anglers need a variety of coolers and nothing keeps contents cold like Yeti. The tough rotomolded body and super efficient insulation with a rubber gasket around the lid trap cold air and keep four Yeti ice packs frozen for hours and food or fish cold for days. When I’m on a road trip, I keep a Roadie 24 in the backseat with Yeti Thin Ice packs to maintain lunch meat and beverages for days. When I give a Yeti cooler, my friend rips off the gift wrap and their face lights up with the cool colors, smart design, and visions of years of adventure ahead.

Towable Toys

Rave Sports Razor 2: My boat is a serious fishing machine, but I can turn it into a recreational vehicle by adding a Rave Sports Razor 2 trick tube. My family loves a boat ride and a towable tube is a perfect excuse to cool off on a hot day. The two-person tube is easier to transport and store on my 20-foot boat. On the water, the sporty triangle design with heavy handles and PVC-coated hull is easy to maneuver at any speed. Even if the gift recipient has other towable toys, the Razor 2 adds a sporty element to tubing and doesn’t take up a lot of space in the garage.

Gift Shopping for Boaters Can Be a Breeze

Gift shopping for boat owners and anglers is difficult. I have a long wish list of very specific items. That leaves a lot of options for gifts but a super picky gift recipient. A great gift goes directly onto my boat. A substandard gift goes into a box in my garage. My advice is to learn what the friend or family member needs or wants. Then, research the best examples in the category because quality and features are important to anglers and boaters who depend on their gear to have a good time.

The post Gift Guide for Boaters appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

When Should I Fish a Jig?

In the yin and yang of tackle design, the development of specialized gear can be circular. Thus, with jigging gaining in worldwide interest and popularity, tackle manufacturers make better and better jigging gear. At the same time, with manufacturers making better and better gear, jigging seems to make commensurate gains in popularity. As a sport, jigging is a niche within the niche of saltwater fishing, and it has generated a range of reels and rods made especially for fishing jigs.

Jigging is now extremely popular for almost all offshore fishisng, except billfish. Bottom species such as groupers, rockfish and snappers eat jigs. The mid column and surface species such as jacks, yellowtail, mackerel, wahoo and mahi slurp a jig. Even the mighty tuna, with its species variety, attack a jig.

But all jigging tackle is not created equal: There’s gear made for speed jigging and for slow-pitch jigging. The difference, in brief, is critical because each method requires different gear. Speed jigging means relying on longer, thinner “knife” jigs that are worked upward with a rapid, rhythmic cadence. Slow-pitch jigging involves considerably more finesse; these jigs are moved with a quick upward lift, then allowed to drop a short distance as they take up the slack line created by the lift.

What Reel is Good for Jigging?

Types of Reels

First up in determining what reels will work best for your fishing: the type—spin or conventional. The majority opinion among experts suggests that for speed jigging, either spin or conventional can be fine. But for slow-pitching, think conventional.

“Slow pitch is all about finesse and sensitivity,” says Paul Chua, a jigging expert at Saltywater Tackle. It’s also about “understanding the underwater conditions, jig action, and currents through your line and rod to the angler. Conventional reels don’t have the gyro movement of a spinning reel and can better transfer all the movements of a jig to the angler.”

For speed jigging, Chris Wong, of Jig Star USA rods, also favors conventionals. The conventional reels not only handle heavier jigs better, but they also deal with the “brutality of mechanical [speed] jigging,” including dealing with big, tough fish such as yellowtail and tuna. “With spinning gear,” he says, “I found myself struggling to even turn the handle” after hooking such species. “Spinners struggle in this area, whereas conventional reels excel.”

Slow-pitch enthusiasts require lighter lines, often in the 20- to 40-pound range. Some slow-pitchers will go considerably lighter, seeking the thinnest braids they can find, to get jigs very deep—more than 2,000 feet for some Japanese experts, Wong says.

Jigging Reel Weight and Power

Jigging requires endlessly lifting reel and rod repetitively; lighter reels are a huge plus. The trend toward smaller reels for jigging has produced some remarkably compact conventional reels capable of holding plenty of surprisingly heavy line (it’s far more difficult to radically downsize spinners without losing key performance parameters).

“Once you’re over 20 ounces a reel, it gets to be a bit much,” says Benny Ortiz, a Shimano pro staffer. “Over 25 ounces, and it is too much.” He cites a time not so long ago when jig anglers had to rely on reels weighing 30 to 40 ounces (which in case your math isn’t so good, means a couple of pounds or more). Now, he says, he can jig 800 feet of water with a tiny lever drag weighing about 15 ounces. But Ortiz does caution against “sacrificing strength for light weight,” which in part is where the quality of the reel comes into play.

Fishing Reel Gear Ratio

Here again, the nod goes to conventionals because many offer an option for two speeds. The high speed (typically at least 6-to-1) helps speed jiggers move the lure quickly, and also works well for slow-pitchers, Chua says. The low gear, of course, offers power when winching a fish away from bottom.

Fishing Reel Line Capacity

Keep in mind line capacity as well. If you intend to use a rig for dropping into really deep water, you’ll want to go conventional because many hold far more line for their size than spinners.

Fishing Drag

Clearly how much available drag a jig angler needs has much to do with his quarry. For smaller fish, most good reels of any type are likely to suffice. But for bigger game, 25 to 50 or more pounds of maximum drag will help win battles. Chua says drag is particularly important with slow-pitch jigging because when hooked up, the reel tends to do most of the work. (In speed jigging, the angler relies heavily on the rod to tire the fish.)

The Price of Quality Fishing Reels

Performance differences between the two types of reels aside, cost can be a factor, Wong says: “It’s a fact that a premium spinning reel will cost more than a premium twin-drag conventional.” You want a jigging reel to be machined with tight tolerances: “no back play or handle slop,” as Ortiz puts it. He also says he prefers a taller, narrow-spool reel because it gives you a more consistent rate of retrieve. In wide-spool reels, the smaller line-on-spool diameter you’re left with when fishing deep means fewer inches per crank. Star-drag conventional reels are fine, but experts tend to prefer lever drags.

What is a Jigging Rod?

Jigging rods are designed for one purpose, Ortiz says: “to impart an action on a jig.” Not many rods truly do this effectively, he adds. A quality rod for jigging should, in Ortiz’s opinion, “have the ability to properly work a jig at various depths. The hallmark of a good jigging rod is an ability to effortlessly move a jig in deep water.”

Before picking out a jigging rod, Chua advises, “know where you’ll be fishing, with what types of jigs and weights, what line class, and in what depth and currents.” Also, “beware of manufacturers who rebrand inshore blanks with a reconfigured grip and guide layout, and then call them slow-pitch rods,” Ortiz advises. Serious, purpose-built jigging rods should show a rating both for braided line and jig weight. Some key parameters experts consider in rods for jigging include:

Rod Action

Wong recommends rods with softer parabolic actions for most jigging. That allows the rod to load up on the upstroke and release on the downstroke. “It’s this loading and unloading recoil the angler feels; this will assist in developing the rhythm that’s so essential,” especially for speed jigging. Stiffer rods can still function this way if an angler uses larger, heavier jigs. Chua agrees that a parabolic (“slow”) action is best; its bounce-back capability is useful and less fatiguing both in working jigs and fighting fish.

The Length of a Fishing Rod

For deeper jigging, Chua’s speed-jig rods range from just over 5 feet to 5 feet, 7 inches. He says in shallower water, where water resistance is much less, he likes a rod from 5 feet, 7 inches to 6 feet, 3 inches. Most slow-pitch rods run 6 to 6½ feet.

For speed jigging, Wong prefers short rods — 5 feet or a bit more. But for anglers using a less aggressive style than his, somewhat longer rods might be preferred, particularly with spinning reels. Song generally fishes 5- to 6-foot rods, noting that he prefers a moderately fast action in slow-pitch rods, with a “soft and delicate tip” but plenty of backbone.

A Lightweight Fishing Rod

In jigging, where anglers are lifting repeatedly for long hours, weight—as with reels—is key. Good jigging rods are generally light. Recent advancement in rod design and materials allows for feather-light jigging sticks that are remarkably strong. Chua cites jig rods weighing about 10 ounces that can handle 300-pound tuna—“no kidding!” He says nano carbon fiber and graphene are probably the most advanced materials available for jigging rods.

Many of these rods are available only overseas and at steep prices. It’s worth noting that most tackle manufacturers in the United States are now offering excellent jigging rods, including those specifically for slow-pitch enthusiasts. Examples include Accurate’s line of Valiant rods, Okuma’s Metaloid slow-jigging rod, and Shimano’s Grappler Slow J1 and Trevala S jigging and casting rods.

Picking Jigs for Fishing

Best Metal Jig Styles

For speed jigging in deep water, Wong recommends streamlined, tail-weighted jigs. “These get down fast and are less likely to be pushed around in the current.” But, he points out, these also have less action on the retrieve, so the jigger has to work them hard and fast to make them swim. Chua’s also all about bottom-weighted, or tail-weighted, jigs for speed jigging. These drop in a sharp darting, wobbling, sliding action.

Long knife jigs with a wider profile are Chua’s pick for tuna in particular; for grouper and amberjack, he’ll fish those long tail-weighted jigs. On the other hand, Song prefers short, center-balanced jigs for tuna.

Center-weighted jigs that are long, wide and flat are Wong’s choice for water that’s shallow or moderately deep. “These have a lot more action on the lift and drop. Their flutter also offers more hang time, which is especially valuable where shallower depth means less area to cover in the water column.”

For slow-pitch jigging, Wong likes the “original, wide-body keel jig, the jig that made slow-pitch so popular. It’s easy to fish and responds to all nuances of rod movement.” He also likes “short, cigar-shaped jigs,” particularly in deeper water. “When worked, these exhibit a rolling, tumbling action, different from conventional tail-weighted jigs. Chua prefers slow-pitch jigs that are flat on one side and rounded on the other.

Ortiz points out that “it’s a common misconception that slow-pitch jigs have to be short, fat and flutter a lot.” In fact some longer, narrow jigs work well for slow-pitching, and their shape gives them a very quick fall into deep water. “The trick,” Ortiz says, “is knowing how every jig in your bag will fall.”

Opinions vary on colors, but Chua mentions a preference for glow jigs that luminesce, particularly for deeper waters. As for size, many experts use jigs no heavier than necessary to reach bottom or any level they desire in given conditions. Chua also points out that, particularly with slow-pitch fishing, it’s paramount to match jigs, per their weight, to a rod’s action.

About the Fishing Experts Mentioned in this Article

Paul Chua: Born and raised in Singapore, Chua began joining fishing adventures to Malaysia when he was 11. Since then, he’s fished the world, and been in the jigging and popping tackle business since 2007. Chua currently lives in the Northeast and is one of the jigging experts, along with Sami Ghandour, at Saltywater Tackle in Sayreville, New Jersey.

Benny Ortiz: Florida-based Ortiz (@mrbennyortiz) is a jigging master, whose expertise and success in slow-pitch has made him a featured speaker at various seminars as well as the subject of coverage in many regional and national magazines. He’s a member of several pro teams, including Shimano.

Kil Song: Song has been described as a “jigging master.” Since 1980, the New Jersey resident has averaged more than one in three days on the water, many in some of the most productive jigging grounds around the world. Song operates the popular online specialty shop: jignpop.com.

Chris Wong: An angling enthusiast who also runs a fishing-tackle import/distribution company in his native New Zealand, Wong’s regular trips to Japanese tackle exhibitions have given him an appreciation for the development of speed (“mechanical”) and slow-pitch jigging. Since 2007, he’s been producing his own brand of jigging rods—Jig Star—with frequent trips to New Zealand’s Three Kings Islands and Ranfurly Bank, which are among the world’s toughest testing grounds.

The post How to Choose Jigging Fishing Tackle appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Development of 3D Charts for Fishing 

In product management at Raymarine in 2001, it was a never-ending arms race to beat the competition to the next feature and win in the market. While brainstorming next-generation charting features, someone realized we live in a 3D world, but charting was limited to providing 2D simplifications.

Even 20 years ago, gaming graphics proved realistic images could be achieved by a personal computer (PC). In 2001, we had no embedded hardware platforms that could handle the processing needed for realistic 3D charts at any speed, let alone at the speed live navigation requires. PC navigation platforms like Nobeltec, Maptech and Raymarine’s RayTech were available, but PCs were too delicate for most boats.

After several discussions with potential suppliers, there was a joint development program with Giuseppe Carnevali, founder of Navionics, to bring the world’s first 3D embedded cartography to chart plotters to help boaters and anglers visualize the water around them. In addition to 3D, aerial images provided insights into channel structures, enabling better scouting for hot spots. 

Countless hours of calculating, programming, sea trials, re-programming and more sea trials resulted in the release of the Navionics Platinum cartography in 2004 on Raymarine’s E-Series MFD. This product was an immediate hit in the marketplace, as mariners could relate well to the 3D images, panoramic photos, and traditional charts that were displayed — simplifying navigation and improving fishing. 

Improvements in Fishing Maps

In the two decades since that initial launch, cartography and displays improved exponentially. Satellite and aerial images have become much more broadly available as more imaging companies make higher resolution images readily available. Lower data-storage costs allow higher resolution data, which enables super-fast computing power to show high-resolution bathymetric shading — again improving our ability to see and understand fish-producing bottom structure.    

Cartographers have access to higher speed, lower cost data gathering tools. Some have enabled fishermen to record from their own fish finders to supplement bathymetric data that is publicly available.    

The choices faced by today’s fishermen are vast. If you just navigate from point A to point B using the chart as a guide, you’re going to be in great shape using most any offerings from the big marine-electronics players. If you want the best chance for more fish, you need to study the offerings available locally. 

Today’s Fishing Mapping Options

Navionics Platinum+ offers detailed coastal and inland cartography as well as high resolution shaded bathymetric data, satellite images, aerial photos, community edits (very helpful if you visit new places often), dock-to-dock route guidance, and many other features. Garmin bought Navionics in 2017, so non-Garmin units utilize Navionics Platinum+. On Garmin units, Navionics Vision+ is available.

C-Map’s Reveal and Reveal X formats provide the latest, highest-featured offerings, like Navionics Platinum +. Depending on your hardware maker and vintage, you will need to study compatibility tables online to see exactly what you can use. 

Humminbird CoastMaster Premium includes region-specific coverage and all the features — plus extras — of Humminbird’s well-known CoastMaster charts. Key additions include 2D shaded relief for bottom detail and depth changes, enhanced aerial imagery to navigate confidently and find fishing spots, auxiliary contours to provide additional contours in shallow waters, and bottom hardness for anglers to identify bottom composition.

CMOR Mapping offers high-resolution data for many areas important for fishing or diving. These are not navigational charts, but they enable outstanding resolution based on surveys with high-resolution echo sounding equipment. I have definitely found bottom features on these charts that I don’t see elsewhere.  

Florida and Louisiana Marine Tracks (ISLA Mapping) focus on those two states’ markets. Their high-resolution images provide great clarity for finding fish. These guys have focused particularly on the shallows and ensuring the accuracy of their data so that you can navigate with confidence in shallow water.  

Strike Lines specialize in high resolution charts for finding hard-bottom fishing structure and other areas that typically hold more fish. After starting in the Gulf of Mexico doing custom surveys of fishing areas with high-resolution scanning sonar, they expanded across the US and also have some Caribbean coverage. They offer a variety of products from free digital downloads of public wreck data to customized surveys based on your specific needs.

Standard Mapping provides aerial mapping and 3D relief shading products. This company has limited regions available, but the detail looks very impressive. 

Your best resources will be based on the hardware and software you use on your boat or in your planning. There are so many rich options today. Just dive in and start your research for your area and your unique fishing style. Your fishing will improve.

Research and Pre-Fishing Before Hitting the Water

Online sites from our government offer another way to enhance your fishing. NOAA’s Bathymetric Data Viewer is available if you want to geek out on some of the raw data that goes into some of the chart products listed above. You can dive into this tool to do your pre-fishing research. Use publicly available data and viewers to scout areas for new structures. 

About the Author: Louis Chemi’s lifelong passion for fishing is deeply rooted in his extensive experience in the marine industry. From his early days fishing in Long Island Sound to his time as a captain and mate on various boats, Chemi has accumulated a vast amount of on-the-water knowledge. With a strong foundation in engineering and marine physics, Chemi has also applied his technical expertise to the fishing industry. He has worked in various roles at Raymarine, Simrad, Lowrance and B&G, including developing fish-finding services and designing marine electronics. More recently, he spent time growing Freedom Boat Club’s franchise business. Today, Chemi continues to explore new fishing waters and share his expertise as a board member of the Recreational Boating & Fishing Foundation.

The post From 2D to 3D: How Fishing Charts Have Revolutionized Sportfishing appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Our panga wallowed in a hefty Pacific swell just a few hundred yards off a rocky peninsula while the skipper used the engine to hold us in a position. The trick was to be safe yet close enough so that we could cast our lures into the sweet spot behind the heaving mass of green water. Balancing precariously on the raised foredeck, one angler launched a popper, an industrial-size lure subscribing a graceful arc. The second it splashed down behind the breaking crest of a swell, he snapped the spinner’s bail shut, and with stiff popping action, began plunging the cup-faced lure over the wave.

Moments later, the surface to the right of the popper boiled as a rusty brown shape suddenly appeared and inhaled the lure. The line came taut, the rod bent and — despite a nearly-locked-down drag — a cubera snapper of trophy proportions effortlessly ripped out yards of line on its first blistering run directly toward the reef.

As the angler reared back against the fish, a resounding crack reverberated around the boat. The rod had snapped about 12 inches from the tip, the line breaking in the process. Hero to zero in a fraction of a second. In disgust, the fellow threw his broken rod to the deck, loudly chastising its manufacturer for a poorly built product.

I’ve witnessed similar scenarios at numerous destinations around the world, noting that anglers often apportion blame on the manufacturer. Most often, though, I’ve been convinced that this has not been the case. But of course, suggesting that the fault might lie with the angler — who just lost a good fish, even perhaps the catch of a lifetime, and broke an expensive rod in the process — is not a good idea.

Admittedly, on a few rare occasions, I’ve felt that rod breakage probably resulted from some manufacturing defect. For example, many years ago during a trip I hosted to Norway, five anglers had each purchased identical four-piece travel rods specifically for the trip. Yet within a few short hours of fishing on the first morning, four of those rods had snapped. Each had failed in the exact same place, leaving little doubt that the rods were at fault.

Like most anglers, I have my own ideas and theories about how and why rods break when fighting fish, but rather than speculate, I sought the insight of leading industry insiders and ­experienced fishing guides on what causes rods to break under stress.

Three Reasons Fishing Rods Break

Trey Epich, a former product-planning manager with Shimano, cited the three causes of rods breaking in use:

1. The rod has been somehow damaged in transit or handling (in a way that doesn’t show);
2. High-sticking while fighting a fish;
3. Mismatched tackle, as when an angler fishes too large a reel or with line too heavy for a given rod.

Epich elaborated: “When fighting fish with an appropriate tackle system that matches the intended species, an angler should never have to wonder, If I pull too hard, will my rod break?” Epich mentioned important points to consider when choosing tackle. “Make sure your reel’s drag setting, line weight and rod ratings are all in alignment. For example, you shouldn’t try to fish a large saltwater spinning reel at a full drag setting on a rod that is rated for up to 30-pound-test. Also, I see anglers who have loaded relatively small reels with very thin, very strong braided lines that are way above the maximum rating for their rod.”

Too often, even knowledgeable anglers, in the excitement of battle (especially toward the endgame), hold rods skyward, an action known as high-sticking. Perhaps more rods break at that point than in any other in-use ­situation. To avoid that, Epich said to keep your rod at an angle between 45 and 60 degrees when hooked up.

The biggest cause of rod breakage invariably is misuse or mishandling, according to Justin Poe, formerly of Shimano and Accurate Fishing, but currently director of rods at Pure Fishing. “Oftentimes rods are broken before they’re broken.”

As examples, he cited a rod hitting a ceiling fan, being dropped against an immovable object, or allowing a sinker or jig hooked in a rod keeper to bang against the blank during the long run to a fishing spot. “While none of these things might leave a rod broken in an obvious way, as soon as the fibers expand or contract at the damaged spot during a fight with a good fish, that rod snaps.”

Christopher Cathcart, engineering manger at Pure Fishing, explained that “you’ll typically see a manufacturing defect show up pretty quickly, either when casting or fighting a fish. If a rod has been used for several months of fishing and then suddenly breaks, typically that’s related to something other than a manufacturing defect.”

Understanding Fishing Rod Failures

How rod breaks appear, Epich said, can reveal the cause of a break. However, with rod materials, “we don’t see a lot of variance in breakages between materials other than a rod with heavier graphite contents will have a more sheared/shattered break, whereas one with heavier glass content will have a more splintered break.

“When we see rods that have broken into three or four pieces, that’s an indication that more force was applied to the rod than its maximum intended breaking strength. When we test our rods in a ‘hang down’ test for break strength, they almost always shatter into several pieces,” Epich continued. However, “when you see a rod break 12 to 18 inches from the tip, that’s a result of high-sticking.”

It’s pretty easy to identify why a blank has failed, Poe agreed. An impact hit will leave a small crater on the blank. Many rods are clear‑coated, which helps protect the blank from impact and UV exposure, but also helps impacts show up, as a hazy spot, likely to be close to the break. “I’ve never seen a rod break into two pieces in testing or on the water from the pull. When the rod is overloaded, it will break in three or more pieces, unless there has been an impact.”

Adding Strength to Fishing Rods

“Fiberglass rods are typically stronger than carbon (graphite) rods,” Cathcart said, but they don’t have the ­sensitivity or weight savings. Therefore, carbon rods give you some advantages over glass, but they require more care because they are more susceptible to damage and breakage due to the nature of the material. Advanced materials and resin systems help bridge this gap, and we use some of these today in our rods.”

In fact, most rod-makers add ­materials in the manufacturing process to strengthen blanks. For example, Shimano uses what it calls its Spiral-X and Hi Power-X technologies to prevent breaks that might be caused by previous impacts. “In addition,” Epich said, “both of these blank technologies add to the torsional rigidity of the blank and increase compression strength, which lead to less blank ‘ovalization’ and breakage.”

A strategy used by Accurate places a high-modulus carbon tape around the entire blank, forming an “X” pattern. This both strengthens the blank and makes it durable and impact resistant, Poe said.

The Multipiece Fishing Rod Factor

Multipiece travel rods bring up a separate set of precautions for anglers because “if the ferrule joints are not fitted together correctly, it would be like hoping for the best in your PVC ­sprinkler pipe when gluing it in at only half depth,” Poe said. “The ferrule is designed to envelop the joint, giving it all points of contact for stability. Often, if these don’t fit right, when the rod flexes, you’ll hear what we call ‘rod knock,’ which is the male end rattling around within the female end of the ferrule.”

Poe added: “This will eventually wear out the inside of the connection. As long as the ferrules fit well, a multi-piece rod is just as strong as a one-piece—some would even say stronger—provided the ferrules are located at the proper points. Some argue that ferrules create hard spots that hinder the action in multipiece rods, but I think the technology today is so good that most anglers would never know a rod was multipiece [from the action].”

Cathcart agreed that “multi-piece rods have a reputation for being weaker, but if designed properly, they can be very strong.” He cites modern multipiece fly rods and also some saltwater jigging rods that have detachable sections with the rod sliding into the top of the handle sections. “Rods like these see a lot of pressure, and they hold up just fine,” Cathcart said.

Jigging Rods Face Maximum Stress

A rod built strictly for optimal performance or sensitivity, where strength is secondary, might be more susceptible to breaking when mishandled, Poe maintained. But most rods are built with multiple layers that vary in number, thickness, orientation and material, Cathcart said, to improve performance while making them stronger.

Jigging rods in particular seem to be routinely subjected to maximum stress. Cathcart said that “these rods see a lot of stress both when working the lures and also when fighting fish. You need a rod limber enough to properly work a lure, but strong enough to land a fish. For this reason, the design of the rod is very important.

“You’ll see many modern jigging rods with a slower action in the rod blank; this allows the rod to flex more toward the middle and back end when under a load, which helps spread out the load along a longer portion of the blank. It also makes working lures a little easier.”

A Fishing Guide’s Perspective on Rod Strength

Capt. Skip Nielsen started his guiding career way back in 1973, and you can still find in him on the waters in and around Islamorada, Florida. Nielsen’s clients routinely caught 100-plus-pound tarpon along with huge sharks and grouper. So how do today’s rods compare with those used when he started fishing?

“Back in the day, the good-quality one-piece fiberglass rods were pretty hard to break. When graphite rods came out, they broke fairly easily. I was always on a quest for a stick that would not break trying to pump up a large grouper with 50-pound line,” Nielsen says. “Rods tended to break when anglers were fighting fish straight up and down: It’s all about the angle.”

Capt. Rick Stanczyk, of Bud N’ Mary’s Marina, said: “Today’s rods are incredible, but there are still do’s and don’ts. The biggest cause of rods snapping, in my experience, is due to angler error.” Not surprisingly, Stanczyk then cites high-sticking because that “puts the pressure in the tip part of the rod as opposed to the backbone; this causes the more-fragile tip to snap.”

And, Stanczyk points out—as industry insiders noted above—anglers can easily load reel-and-rod combos with thin braid much stronger than is intended for the rod. And the temptation to do so is clear: That line fits on the spool well enough and casts easily on the lighter rod. However, this ­situation can be tough on rods.

The post Why Fishing Rods Break appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Once leader material reaches a certain thickness, knots become an imperfect means of connecting hooks, swivels and lures, and creating loops for attaching snaps. From about 80-pound-test and up (be it monofilament or fluorocarbon leader line), knots don’t easily cinch tight, grow awkwardly large, and might unravel. Crimps, on the other, offer a solid and streamlined grip.

As with knots, crimps represent a critical connection between you and fish, and so they must be created using the proper crimp sleeves, tools and techniques. To learn more about this, we talked with Capt. Shawn Rotello, owner and operator of Night Runner sportfishing charters in Kona, Hawaii. Rotello targets blue marlin, yellowfin tuna and wahoo, as well as ulua (giant trevally) in the lee of the Big Island. Here are his tips for creating good crimps using a hand crimper.

Pick the Best Sleeve Size

First, make sure the crimp sleeve is properly sized to the line, says Rotello. “If the sleeve is too small, the line won’t fit inside; if it’s too large, the sleeve might not crimp tight enough to keep the line from slipping,” he explains. Hi-Seas makes it easy by labeling the packaging for the crimp sleeves to fit specific pound-test ratings. You can also match the diameter of the sleeve to the diameter of the leader. Each should be labeled on the packaging for the sleeves and leader material.

Aluminum Versus Copper Sleeves

Crimp sleeves for monofilament and fluorocarbon come in two styles: oval aluminum and double-barrel copper. Anglers debate on which is best, but Rotello offers this advice: “I tend to use the double-barrel copper sleeves for leaders of 130-pound-test and less, because they seem a tad more gentle on the lighter line.” For 150-pound-test and up, the skipper uses aluminum sleeves. For thicker leaders, the sleeves are correspondingly larger, and the lighter aluminum material keeps the weight down for better lure and live-bait action.

The Sleeve Length

Crimping sleeves come in two sizes: short and long. Short sleeves are a better choice for lighter leaders and/or line-shy fish. The long sleeves are better for heavier leaders and situations in which the crimp will not be visible, such as inside the skirt of a trolling lure or within a rigged bait.

Melt the Tag End

Rotello recommends this step before actually crimping: After you’ve threaded the leader through one end of the sleeve and back through the other end of the sleeve, pull out about 3 or 4 inches of the tag line. “Use a lighter to melt the tip of the tag line,” he says. “This creates a blob of material on the end of the tag line that helps prevent it from pulling out of the crimp.” Once it is cool, pull the end of the tag flush with the end of the crimp.”

Don’t Kink the Loop

This tip applies to loops crimped without thimbles or other chafe protection. As you are tightening the loop, avoid making it too small. It should be just large enough to prevent the loop from kinking.

Match Diameters

The jaws of a crimping tool such as the Hi-Seas Deluxe mini hand crimper have multiple indentations known as dies. This allows for crimping different sizes of sleeves. Match the size range stamped next to the die to the inside diameter (ID) of the sleeve. For copper sleeves, use the ID of one of the barrels. For oval aluminum sleeves, use the shortest inside dimension.

One or Two Crimps

With a long sleeve, crimp it at least twice, once each about 2 to 4 millimeters from the ends of the sleeve. With a short sleeve and a thick-jawed crimper, there is usually not enough room for two crimps, so just crimp once in the center. “It is important not to crimp too close to the end of the sleeve, as this may damage or nick the leader line,” Rotello says. “Leave enough room so that the end of the sleeve flares a bit.”

Perfect Pressure

If you don’t crimp a sleeve with enough pressure, the line can slip out. Too much pressure can damage the leader line and cause it to break. A quality crimping tool such as the Hi-Seas Deluxe mini hand crimper comes calibrated for applying just the right amount of pressure to create secure crimps that do not damage the line.

Chafe Protection

Chafe protection such as thimbles or tubing keep the leader loop from wearing thin while trolling or battling a fish. “I like to use chafe protection when fishing marlin,” Rotello says. “This is especially important around the hook since a marlin’s bill and mouth are about the same as 60-grit sandpaper.” As with crimp sleeves, thimbles and chafe tubing need to be matched to the diameter of the leader line.

The post How to Make Good Crimps appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

The Simrad Cruise 7 Chartplotter/Fishfinder Combo is one of the most intuitive and user-friendly chartplotters on the market. Equipped with an 83/200 transducer and pre-loaded US coastal charts, this all-in-one system makes GPS navigation simple and stress free.

Pros

Intuitive Interface: The SIMRAD Cruise features easy-to-navigate menus and rotary dial controls, allowing you to access charts, routes, and sonar data effortlessly.

Comprehensive Mapping: Pre-loaded with U.S. coastal maps and a worldwide basemap, it supports upgrades to enhanced charts from C-MAP® and Navionics® for more detailed navigation.

Advanced CHIRP Sonar: The included 83/200 transducer utilizes CHIRP sonar technology, providing clear and detailed views of fish and underwater structures.

Cons

Limited Networking Capabilities: Lacks advanced networking features found in higher-end models, such as NMEA 2000 connectivity.

The YETI Roadie® 24 Marine Cooler is a compact yet robust solution for keeping your beverages and perishables cold during outdoor adventures. Designed with enhanced features, it offers increased capacity, improved insulation, and user-friendly portability, making it a reliable companion for boating, fishing trips, and more.

Pros

Portability: Its slim design fits behind the front seat of a car, making it ideal for road trips and fishing excursions.

Ease of Use: The Quicklatch system allows for easy, one-handed access, enhancing user convenience.

Increased Capacity: The Roadie® 24 is 20% larger than its predecessor, accommodating up to 33 cans or 26 pounds of ice. Its internal height of 13 inches allows standard wine bottles and 2-liter soda bottles to stand upright, preventing leaks and spills.

Cons

Limited Color Options: Available in select colors, which may not cater to all personal preferences.

The Sperry Men’s Billfish 3-Eye Boat Shoe is the perfect blend of classic style and modern functionality, making it a great choice for both boating activities and casual wear. Crafted from premium leather, these shoes offer exceptional durability and a timeless look that pairs well with any outfit.

Pros

Great Traction: The Sperry Men’s Billfish shoe comes fully equipped with Wave-Siping on the rubber outsole to provide stability on wet and dry surfaces.

Cool and Comfotable: Air mesh upper panels and a shock absorbing EVA heel cup provide breathability and added comfort for long days on your feet.

Cons

Narrow: Some buyers report that the shoes run narrow but Sperry does offer wide and extra wide options for some sizes.

The post Sport Fishing’s Deals of the Week appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Anyone who has spent hours and hours casting a spinning rod appreciates lower weight and a compact size. But when a big fish turns up the heat, a spinning reel has to muster the power to respond. Fortunately, the next generation of ultralight spinning reels feature design and technology to prevent corrosion and damage with beefed-up components and silky smooth drag for years of reliable performance.

PENN Clash II

In addition to a carbon fiber drag, CNC-cut gears, the water-resistant Clash II has a super-slow oscillating rotor with ball bearing line roller that lays line on the spool so it leaves the reel faster for longer casts with a light lure.

Okuma Inspira ISX

Inside the Inspira’s all-metal body, the small reel packs oversized gears, protected pinion and clutch and stainless-steel bearings. With sizes down to 2000 and priced around a hundred bucks, the Inspira ISX also packs a great value.

Shimano Saragosa SW A

Features like a water-resistant body, carbon drag and shielded stainless steel bearings make the Saragosa SW A virtually bulletproof. On the inside, the pinion gear is supported on both ends with low-friction bushing and a large cold-forged main gear provides cranking strength usually found on more expensive reels.

Daiwa BG MQ 2500-H

In addition to a long list of saltwater-ready features, Daiwa’s BG MQ most unique technology is the super low-friction grease on the drag washers. When a fish takes off, the drag engages smoothly and quickly applies even and steady pressure to the line.

13 Fishing Axum

A sealed rotor, corrosion proof ball bearings and ceramic line roller eliminate common failure points on the new 13 Fishing Axum. The soft and grippy cork reel knob is comfortable for long days finesse fishing.

Quantum Strive

Quantum is back in a big way with the introduction of the Strive. This lightweight marvel features 11 seals to be waterproof to IP standards and beyond, with a smooth carbon fiber drag system housed in a sturdy aluminum frame for bantamweight rigidity.

The post The Best Lightweight Spinning Reels appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Bajio Sigs With Rose Mirror

“The rose mirror lens color is the ticket for daily needs; we rarely have cloudless days here. The lens helps see the reds, seatrout and tarpon in contrast to the bottom. On sunny days, the lens cut glare so the surface roll and flash of prime targets or bait can be seen from a distance.” — Capt. Alan Jackson, NearShore Guiding, Beaufort County, South Carolina

Costa Fantail PRO With Copper Silver Mirror

“When it comes to our Lowcountry marsh, you have to be ready for it all. A calm sunny morning can quickly give way to intermittent or heavy cloud cover. Sight fishing is our preferred game, and around here, copper lenses reign supreme. This lens color fits with local water color to make shapes pop. I also wear a frame that prevents peripheral light from creeping into the corners of your eyes that can skew your focus and obscure your vision.” — Capt. Cleve Hancock, Brown Dog Sport Fishing, Charleston, South Carolina

Read Next: Prescription Sunglasses for Fishermen

Pelagic Navigator With Green Mirror

“The new Navigator frames are growing on me due to the light-blocking panels on the side of the frame. For the inshore waters I fish, green mirror/amber lenses or grey mirror/yellow lenses are the way to go. I keep both handy every time I’m out. On a typical sunny day, the green mirror/amber lens is my choice to reflect green light away from the eye.” — Capt. Tyler Kapela, Hit and Run Charters, Tampa Bay, Florida

The post What Is the Best Color Sunglass Lens For Fishing In The Marsh? appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.